Scuffle and Dust Cough
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Some lichen, choss, and a heady start detract from the quality of this climb. The climbing in the dihedral is pretty dang fun, though. Modern gear softens the sting on this climb, negating the need for the "3 sets of brass nuts and crack-n-ups" mentioned in the guidebook. RPs are still really handy, though.
Tiptoe up and over the pile of precariously-wedged blocks that mark the beginning of this route. (Yes, apparently they're solid). Work your way into the corner, passing the start of the Salty Dogs line. Here, all of your Mount Lemmon zero-error-tolerance gear placing experience will come in real handy. Commit to the corner, gain the slab, and confront your next challenge. A fall while gaining the slab could be fairly bad--make sure you have your belayer's full attention. The main corner eventually meets a jumbled series of cracks and buttresses-here you can set up a belay and bring up your second. One could also continue to the top with a larger rack. Either climb out the low-angle corner to the right, or take on the overhanging buttresses to the top. Walk off
It is also possible to start this climb by starting off of a small ledge to the right of the main ledge (spicy 4th class move). We didn't do this line, but it looks easier and potentially safer.
Start as for Salty Dogs, but continue up the nearly vertical corner. Be mindful of the pile of lodged blocks at the start.
Doubles of #00-#3 camalots, RPs, stoppers. Offset cams in the thin-to-fat fingers range may also make you feel a lot better. Dust mask and goggles optional (kidding).
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 7, 2014
This line is really not as dirty as it sounds or looks, and it deserves more traffic. It looks like it may have actually been brushed recently...Eric?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 9, 2014
Nice going Andy, this route probably hasn't been done in 20 years or more. Sounds like it might be worth cleaning up. I haven't done anything I can remember although I might have brushed a little after doing Salty Dogs.