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Scruffy Band
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Scruffy Band 


Type:  Trad, Ice
Original: WI3 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Dead of winter is best
Page Views: 2,193
Submitted By: Jeff B on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Scruffy Band

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Nice route on the granite rocks of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Channel 4 News did a story on ice climbing here in 2001 with us.


Two pitches, first pitch is very easy, WI 2-3. Second pitch ends with a 15 foot pillar. Descent is best rappelling off trees.

Toprope Protection 

Half way up the route there are pitons in the rock for toproping.

Photos of Scruffy Band Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Scruffy Band.
Leading Scruffy Band.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gettin scrappy on Scruffy
Gettin scrappy on Scruffy
Rock Climbing Photo: playing on Scruffy band
playing on Scruffy band
Rock Climbing Photo: Final pillar pitch from the fat tree belay (and st...
Final pillar pitch from the fat tree belay (and st...
Rock Climbing Photo: Can be thin in the middle of the first pitch...
Can be thin in the middle of the first pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scruffy on 6 Jan 2013
Scruffy on 6 Jan 2013

Comments on Scruffy Band Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Storm
From: Lander, WY
Jan 18, 2007

Thanks for the info. I am going to assume that one 60m rope can safely get from tree to tree on the this true? Happy climbing.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Jan 16, 2008

I've done it from the lower tree standard rappel (upper tree is the anchor for the final top out, kind of on the left side of the upper tier) with a single 70 meter rope, and it think we used most all of it.

We rappelled from the upper tree last night with 2 70's, and, seemed like we had 40 or so feet of rope left over (meaning the upper tree rap would eat up all of two 60m ropes, methinks). The lower tree is really only around 50 or so feet below the upper tree. I noticed a single bolt anchor with a sling on it below the huge roof that you'd rappel from the lower tree, so, that "might" be an option with a single 60. Seems like most of the tree-ish stuff you rappel by is bushy, and, not as substantial for a rap anchor. Looking at a picture I have of the route, I don't see any big enough trees for a decent anchor. A single 60 "might" put you atop that snowy ramp which "might" be ok to down climb (its icy right now, but, might be thin).

Safer would be a pair of ropes...
By bsmoot
Jan 18, 2008

You can also hike off to the East if you don't want to rap.
By Stymingersfink
Feb 26, 2008

two 60m ropes will get you all the to the ground from either tree. a single 70M rope will get you to the lower ramp from the lower tree, with a short (20') downclimb over WI2+ ice to reach the ground. a 70M rope from the upper tree will barely get you to the lower ramp, with about a 25' downclimb.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jan 22, 2013
rating: WI3

Pretty easy route! I just wanted to throw out some info regarding the condition of the anchors on the first ledge on the right. The pitons aren't going anywhere for a long, long time (5 in total). 3 pitons are tied of with black slings and a cord that are still in good condition but wouldn't hurt to replace. The right two pitons are tied off with a blue sling that is in very good condition. If you are going to the top then ignore this and keep climbing to the top. If you are toproping, then use this ledge.
By Bogdan P
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 17, 2017

We rapped the route with one 70m rope. Had plenty of rope left over at each station too. There are chains at the top, pitons at the ledge/cave just under the last step (~140' up), and bolts on climbers left about 60 feet up the route.

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