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Scruffy Band

Routes Sorted
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Contact Gully T 
Not My Fault 
Scruffy Band T 
Scruffy Band Left 
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Table Scraps 
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Scruffy Band Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 4,556
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeff B on Mar 31, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Scruffy band, central route. Pillar visible.

Description 

This is the first main ice climbing area in LCC. It's on the South side of the canyon and consists of one main flow called Scruffy Band (WI-3) right in the center of the granite slabs, and another WI-2 or 3 apron that leads up to an overhang of granite with some impressive curtains and pillars of ice ("Hanging Pillar" WI5-6). There are a handful of other routes right next to these main two, but they rarely come in thick. Usually very thin routes. The time of year this ice comes in varies greatly from year to year. Usually by Christmas the main line is in thick enough for good screw placements. Since it's at a lower altitude, the ice often comes in sporadically, especially during warm winters. Getting around to the top of these routes to top rope wouldn't be very easy so it's a good beginner area as long as you have someone that can lead the routes. Once someone leads them, then you can top rope very easily. There are some pitons about half way up Scruffy Band for good tope roping.

Getting There 

You can park at the bus stop at the mouth of the canyon and cross the road, or park at the head of the Temple Quarry Nature Trail. It's just south of the junction of Highways 209 and 210. From this parking area, follow the nature trail until you find a tangent that drops down into the creek (don't worry, I've never seen water in the creek). There is a trail up the opposite bank that goes straight up to the ice. Approach time is about 20-30 minutes.

Climbing Season

For the Little Cottonwood Canyon area.

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Scruffy Band

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Scruffy Band:
Scruffy Band   WI3     Trad, Ice   
Scruffy Band Left   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch, 240'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Scruffy Band

Featured Route For Scruffy Band
Rock Climbing Photo: Scruffy Band Left.  Line is marked, with variation...

Scruffy Band Left WI3-4  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Scruffy Band
A nice variation especially if the main Scruffy Band is crowded. By staying as far left as possible, you can avoid knocking ice on any party climbing Scruffy Band.The initial low angle slab of ice is sometimes thick enough to allow a belay at the base of the steeper ice (as well as a handy down climb if using a single 70m rope). Several (4 or 5) steep sections of ice punctuated by lower angle stances eventually joining Scruffy Band on the far left side of the low angle apron below the final st...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Scruffy Band Add Comment
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By Dave Burny
From: buffalo, ny
Feb 8, 2014
looking for a partner...hey guys, gonna be in Utah next week, looking for a parnter(s)...I am bringing all but rope and screws...email tripleaderdave@gmail.com or call 716-400-2436 if you are upto the call of duty...
pura vida,
Dave