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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,996
Submitted By: Skip Harper on May 1, 2001

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Katherine Chumacero loving the killer hands on pit...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This route is located on the Northwest face. Screw is the second large crack system to the right of the large roof. The route starts with a blocky crack that leads to a chimney about thirty feet from the start. Once through the chimney stay to the right and follow the hand crack to a large ledge. Belay from this ledge. The first 15' after this ledge is offwidth. Cross the nearly horizontal section and finish the climb with a perfect hand crack. Walk off to the left.


I recommend a #4 Camalot to protect the offwidth crack at the start of the second pitch.

Photos of Screw Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin Knaus on the 2nd pitch of Screw, jammin' gr...
Justin Knaus on the 2nd pitch of Screw, jammin' gr...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Screw" from below.
"Screw" from below.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex climbing the first pitch.
Alex climbing the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin pondering his next move into the chimney.
Kevin pondering his next move into the chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming through the Hand Cracks after the chimney...
Stemming through the Hand Cracks after the chimney...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyson Arp in the chimney section of pitch one.
Tyson Arp in the chimney section of pitch one.

Comments on Screw Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 18, 2017
By Hill
Apr 30, 2002

We found the chimney on pitch 1 is more easily tackled right side in. Placing pro is harder this way but it's possible to exit the chimney earlier on face holds by going right side in. The final 5.6 crack is positively top of the lin
By Nikos
Jun 24, 2002

4-star route! Has a little bit of everything, chimney, fantastic hand cracks and some (easy) offwidth. Right side into the chimney works well.
By Tyson S Arp
Aug 18, 2002

Love this route!
By Unassigned User
Aug 28, 2002

It has some of everything. If you want to climb this it will take all you have!
By shad O'Neel
Jul 14, 2004

the chimney is the gateway to superb handcracks. upon topping out, we couldnt resist the short but sweet cracks that take you up another level, still possible to scramble off. IT probably ups the grade to 8+, but is a great addition.
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 19, 2005

Classic. Probably the most travelled route on the NW face. The 5.6 finger and hand crack is surely one of the best of its grade at the 'Voo.
By Colin Coulson
Sep 12, 2005

By coop Best
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 12, 2005

Agreed, this is a fantastic route and worth the nice walk out.
By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 12, 2006

Nice route--good jams, good pro, chimney section was tough but it required only 3-4 moves and was well-protected. The rap chain stations indicated in the guidebook for 70' rappels no longer are there but the 120' station is usable. Walkoff east is just as easy.
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 1, 2008

You should be able to use a 60m rope to get down to the base of zipper, then downclimb down to the base of Hammer, and then off the formation. Kind of a hybrid descent, and a little scary in spots, but not too bad.
By Mike Regall
Nov 1, 2010

We climbed this route on Halloween. (*Significantly colder than Colorado Front Range.) Fun chimney and hand crack, great exposure and view to the west from the top. Was able to watch a beautiful sunset.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 10, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Awkward for a few moves in the chimney. UK grade VS 4c or Ogwen Valley V Diff.
By K Gustafson
Sep 12, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Best 5.7 I have ever done. I broke this down into 3 pitches. The first I ended before the offwidth by slinging cord around a flake. The second pitch was about 15 feet of offwidth; pushed a single #5 through the whole thing. The third pitch was the hand/finger crack finale.
By tkessel
From: Windsor,CO
Jul 9, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Wow! What an awesome sustained climb! Great gear and fun movement! Loved it! Big storm rolled in just as we finished up 2nd pitch, epic!
By Ben D.
From: Colorado
Aug 18, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a great route and well-worth the hike especially if you're looking to get away from the crowds and tourists around the campground! Even though this is rated 5.7, it felt MUCH harder than Edward's Crack.

P1 starts with what looks like a blocky, vegitated ladder up to the chimney but actually climbs better than it looks. The chimney is the crux of the climb and felt like solid 5.8 (but I'm also not a very good chimney climber). The chimney was type 3 fun for me, but once you pull through the small bulge at the top of the chimney, the fun really starts. Take advantage of a good rest, and then head up a stellar 5.7 hand crack (the rightmost crack) to a beautiful belay ledge. You can sling a flake here for a good belay anchor.

P2 starts with a nice off-width and then leads to a little, horizontal area. Here, you can either climb over a boulder with a protectable flake to the right, or go left into another chimney. I lead on the flakey boulder to the right, while my girlfriend chose to follow in the chimney to the left. She said it was quite easy. After the boulder/chimney, come to the 5.6 hand crack that is all too short, but AWESOME, that leads to the top of the climb.

Due to weather, we walked off climber's left, Northeast, through a series of tunnels and caves to the end of the formation and through forested rock via a social trail back to the base. To the top and then back to the bottom took about 2-1/2 hours.

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