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Unsorted Routes:

Screw It 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jim Ewing
Page Views: 967
Submitted By: chris deulen on Mar 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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One of the few great endurance routes at Shagg, and one of 4 that start on The Great Escape. To reduce rope drag, skip the clip on the flake of Shagg It, or bring a full length sling. This makes the next section (where the gray rock meets the schist) a bit creepy, albeit safe with a good belay. There are a couple of hard moves before a good hold can be acquired to clip off of after this section. After rounding the corner, finish by climbing into Shagg Zag by either down climbing a bit and unclipping to reduce drag again, or merely skip it and prepare for a ride if the juice isn't there to make it through this endurance crux. All in all, a great newer route that needs to see more traffic, and could use another brushing or two. Thanks Jim Ewing for putting this up. Two stars for the complexity of the lead.


Make sure you know what you're doing before you get into this thing!

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By Lanky
From: Tired
Apr 8, 2009

# of bolts? Chains at the top? Where does it finish? Thanks for adding the route, but this description needs a little more detail.
By corson
From: Northport, Me.
Apr 18, 2009

Start on Great escape, At second bolt veer up and left like you were going to climb Shagg It, after first crux of Shagg It, bust right again through a steep ( roof? ) section into Zagg Shagg below its RP crux, finish to Zagg Shaggs anchors. I have not climbed this yet but it looks FULL VALUE!
By chris deulen
From: Castle Rock
Jun 10, 2009

While I don't have the number of bolts, I feel my description is adequate (though I will try to add a picture as soon as I can). It should be implied that the route finishes on Zag Shagg and that a number of slings is needed. Even if there are chains at the top, that shouldn't effect the amount of gear you bring. Someone may have removed them since this post. Someone may have added them. Most climbing areas I've been to don't have chains, and the ones that do are priviledged. Descriptions should not be used as a form of protection or as a crutch to common sense. Bring enough gear, find the route, then use your own discretion.
By Lanky
From: Tired
Jun 15, 2009


Sorry if I came across as abrupt or rude. Not my intent. I agree with all you say w/r/t descriptions not being a substitute for common sense. My comment here was probably misplaced - I just got used to the spoon-feeding.

Thanks again for adding the route.
By chris deulen
From: Castle Rock
Jul 1, 2009

No worries! Climb on.

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