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Screaming Besengi

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East Chimney T 

Screaming Besengi Rock Climbing 

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Location: 34.84878, -111.73537 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 199
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 29, 2016
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A triangular tower just east of Firecat Spire. The original route follows a very cool chimney system.

Getting There 

Follow the directions into the Heart of Marg's Draw and Firecat Spire area. Once the hiker's trail ends hits some slickrock before Grand Orcaface Spire is reached, cut right (southeast) and hit a major wash. This part of the approach is always elusive to me, and I've yet to figure out the best means of accessing the wash from the trail. Once in the wash, follow it east, passing under Orcaface, until below the Heart of Marg's Draw/Firecat Spire area. Cut out of the main wash in a subsidiary wash to the north (toward Fisher King/Firecat) for a couple of hundred yards. Leave the subsidiary wash, and diagonal right (northeast) up open ridge and slickrock patches to pass below the southern toe of the Screaming Besengi. A steep rubble gully runs along the very base of the east face of the Besengi, and leads to the base of the route and a decent staging area.

Climbing Season

For the Sedona area.

Weather station 2.1 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Screaming Besengi

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Screaming Besengi:
East Chimney   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Screaming Besengi

Featured Route For Screaming Besengi
Rock Climbing Photo: The route as seen from immediately below.

East Chimney 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13  Arizona : Sedona Area : ... : Screaming Besengi
The route could be broken up in a couple of different ways, but this setup worked well for us. Be sure to sling pro long on the chimney or rope drag will get problematic. Pitch 1--A short approach pitch up blocky corner cracks about 25' left of the upper chimney. Traverse a good ledge atop the limestone band to the main system and belay from hand/finger gear. (5.8, 40') Pitch 2--An awkward crack up a flare leads to a ledge and a wrestle around a saw-grass bush to access the base of the chimney. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

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