REI Community
Pillars area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air China T 
Born to Be Wild T 
Bush Remedy T 
Clam Digger T 
Clam Digger "Direct" T 
Dancing with Dragons T 
Dawn Chimney, The T 
Decepticon T 
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 
Don't Be A Pussy T 
Dungeons and Dragons T 
Faraway Corner T 
Funky Dan, The T 
Men In Tights T 
Morass T 
Orange Crescent T 
Over the Rainbow T 
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 
Staircase of the Elves T 
Swan Song T 
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 
Zhoulei's Flake T 

Screaming at the Faraway Corner 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Dobie
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Page Views: 217
Submitted By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 14, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Rapping the Faraway Corner-Screaming at the Moon L...

Description 

A great link-up climb that is seldom done. It can be done in two 15-meter pitches or one, long 30-meter pitch. Doing it in one is highly recommended!

This link-up gives you everything. Traversing, sporty liebacking, crack climbing, and even a tasty bit of off-widthing.

Begin at the right-arching traversing crack of Faraway Corner, which is 10 feet right to the first pitch flake of Screaming at the Moon. Traverse into the left-leaning corner crack. Some sporty face moves will deposit you in a left-facing, left-leaning lieback crack. Torque some narrow finger jams, finagling rests where you can, and continue through the slowly widening crack. The crack will expand to thin-hands and lead to a big ledge. You can opt to belay here, or if you brought all the gear with you, continue up the wide crack above (recommended).

From the ledge, continue up the wide crack with some awkward moves off the ledge. Fists and wider crack climbing will give way to a few moderate OW moves that can be mitigated with x-ray climbing vision on the faces. This will bring you to a thin rock fin (be gentle with it) at the top of the crack and then deposit you onto a small, slabby face, where you will find a bolted anchor station.

A 60m rope will barely make the ground. We did it with a 70m for some extra insurance. The rappel may be split into two-shorter rappels using the Faraway Corner anchor station.

Location 

From the approach trail fork at the base of the Pillars area, turn right. You will reach a big, sandy ledge after a minute or so. Faraway Corner is the big, left-leaning corner crack in the middle of the area across from the eponymous fallen pillars.

Protection 

- One #1 C3 (optional)
- Two #.3s
- One or two #.4s
- Two #.5s
- Two #.75s
- One #1
- One #2
- Two #3s
- Two or three #4s
- One #5


Comments on Screaming at the Faraway Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About