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Scream Amy 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 305
Submitted By: Furthermore on Oct 5, 2015

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Chelsea squeezing up Scream Amy.

Description 

I can't believe this awesome offwidth hasn't been added yet! It's pretty good even for NTM standards.

Begin up the obvious wide crack just right of Rafiki. You can clip the first two bolts of Rafiki with extended runners (awkward to clip with left side in).

Once past the second bolt, wiggle into the crack, and enjoy a fun squeeze chimney. When it becomes too tight, eject yourself from the chimney with a surprisingly good finish. Belay from gear or from the anchors on Power and Lies.

Double BD #6s are recommended. I was able to back clean my single #6 at a less than inspiring chockstone.

Location 

This is just right of Rafiki.

Protection 

Long pants & shirt, a few long runners, a double runner, and 1-2 BD #6s. If you don't clip bolts at the start, a blue Bigbro could be used.


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