REI Community
Mt. Francis
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Scratch and Sniff 
South East Ridge 
Southwest Ridge T 

Scratch and Sniff 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c M6

   
Type:  Mixed, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c M6 Steep Snow [details]
FA: Andres Marin and Clint Helander
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring
Page Views: 1,067
Submitted By: clint helander on Jun 17, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [3 people like this page.]
Clint Helander several hundred feet below the summ...

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

At the gateway of the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, Stubbs' Buttress (a satellite peak butting out from the NW Ridge of Mount Francis) is a comparatively small feature that packs a lot of adventure. This is an easily climbable day-route from Kahiltna Base Camp.

At the base of the North Buttress, cross the 'schrund and aim for the right trending snow ramp under the first major rock band. after about 300' or so, belay under a short but steep corner with a good gear anchor that takes many cams and nuts.

The next pitch tackles the corner (10m, M6) and then one of the route's best features. Climb a widening left facing chimney with many foot holds on the left side (10m, M5/6) and belay above (60m).

Several weaknesses in the rockband above can be climbed, but the first ascent team chose a wide chimney on the right. Pumpy, thin moves lead to a vertical to slightly overhanging mixed corner and then easier terrain.

Several more pitches of varied climbing lead to a left traverse on steep and runout snow to the base of a thin corner. Look for a wide crack on the left (good fist jams) and a direct crack that takes good small/medium cams. Traverse up and right and belay under another small chimney/corner.

Easier ground leads to a runout slab. Moderate climbing (snow, mixed) takes you to the summit.

Downclimb off the summit towards the prominent ice gully and look for a nut and pin anchor in a large rock. Make three rappels on rock gear to the ice gully and then rappel on V-threads to the base.


This is an incredible route with a low commitment level and an easy approach/descent. Hopefully it will become another popular base camp classic.

Location 

East Fork of the Kahiltna. North Buttress of Mount. Francis.

From Kahiltna Base Camp, descend Heartbreak Hill and ski around the west flank of Francis. Enter the East Fork of the Kahiltna and Stubbs' Buttress will be the first feature on the right. Approximate approach time: 2 hours.

Protection 

Cams to 3", nuts, pins, a few screws


Photos of Scratch and Sniff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andres high on the route.
Andres high on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andres Marin high on the route on moderate mixed t...
Andres Marin high on the route on moderate mixed t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Clint Helander beginning the thin crack after the ...
Clint Helander beginning the thin crack after the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Clint Helander in the chimney on the second belaye...
Clint Helander in the chimney on the second belaye...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andres Marin high on the first crux pitch.
Andres Marin high on the first crux pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andres Marin beginning the first technical pitch.
Andres Marin beginning the first technical pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andres Marin coming up the first prominent ramp.
Andres Marin coming up the first prominent ramp.
Rock Climbing Photo: Helander and Marin below Scratch and Sniff.
Helander and Marin below Scratch and Sniff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scratch and Sniff on Stubbs' Buttress, Mount Franc...
BETA PHOTO: Scratch and Sniff on Stubbs' Buttress, Mount Franc...

Comments on Scratch and Sniff Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About