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17 - This and That Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cramming T 
Said and Done T 
Scram S 
This and That T 
Tips T 
Walk, Don't Run (aka The Bouldering Arch) 
Whim T 

Scram 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ken Yager, 1990
Season: winter
Page Views: 370
Submitted By: Vlad S on Nov 17, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the best sport routes in the valley in its grade. The rock on this pitch is exquisite with many swirly pinches, slopers, golden flakes and even pockets. It's fairly sustained and straight-forward at mid 5.11 for the entire pitch. The short crux comes right at the roof where a multitude of poor hand holds and dearth of footholds on a hard-to-read sequence quickly drain your forearms. It's hard to pull through this move, but once you know what to do - it's not bad at all.

This one bakes in the sun, so it's great for the winter when temps are in the 50s. Unfortunately the steep sand/bushwack approach might prove to be the crux for some folks. Expect 20-25 min to get to the base and don't bother looking for a trail. Just hike straight up from the house-sized boulder 1.5 mi from the 120/140 junction (parking is another 0.1 mi farther down canyon). If you take the approach toward "Tips" and walk along the base - you'll end up bushwacking way more and also without much of a trail for most of it.

Location 

A few feet right of Cramming on the right side of the cliff.

Protection 

11 bolts, bring at least 2 shoulder-length runners to extend a bolt in the opening traverse and just under the roof.


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