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Mt Arrowsmith
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Scottish Soup Kitchen 

WI3+ M5 R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 360'
Original: WI3+ M5 R [details]
FA: Hunter Lee, Steve Janes, April 14th/2017
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 76
Submitted By: Steve Janes on Apr 18, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The more difficult ice step

Mt Arrowsmith is partly private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin by climbing up a short initial thin ice step to a slightly left trending snow ramp, followed by another more difficult ice step that took good stubbies and is followed by a short mixed traverse. Belay at base of this more difficult ice step, or combine pitch 1 and 2. From the base of this next ice step, face right, and climb the vertical ice in two body lengths, clear the snow and find the stienpull in the rock and carefully traverse to the left and into an easier short snow section that leads to a very tight, awkward, and difficult squeeze chimney/offwidth feature that was well protected by a bomber bull dog, and 2 equalized nuts. Shimmey/grovel up the chimney and step left around a rock bulge and up another short snow section to belay in rock (Ylw, Red, Grn Camalot's) below the mixed crux. The next pitch (50m) took a good nut and a solid brown tri-cam just off the belay that protected the first couple moves of the crux of the route but from there pro was non existent. Step up directly above the belay and into a tight, slightly overhanging mixed step thats longer and more difficult than it looks, after 8m or so delicately traverse back right and up trending right through another 5m of thin mixed ground to easier although very run-out terrain. A rather exciting beached whale cornice top out awaits with the last pro a good 15m below. A tree belay awaits 2m left of cornice top out.

Location 

The route is found on the face across the gully from the Newman Foweraker route.

Descend to climbers left and down first big gully (Bruggers Gully)

Protection 

Standard Mixed Rack: Cams to 2", set of nuts, few tri-cams, couple bigger hex's, x6 short ice screws, knife blade pitons, a bulldog or two, a tree atop the route acts as a final anchor.


Photos of Scottish Soup Kitchen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The slightly overhanging and longer than it looks ...
The slightly overhanging and longer than it looks ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scottish Soup Kitchen- WI 3+, M5R
BETA PHOTO: Scottish Soup Kitchen- WI 3+, M5R
Rock Climbing Photo: The beginning of the first pitch
BETA PHOTO: The beginning of the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Scottish Soup Kitchen- WI 3+, M5R
BETA PHOTO: Scottish Soup Kitchen- WI 3+, M5R

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