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Scottie Pippen  

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Will Snodgrass
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on May 13, 2015

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Description 

While this route is a bit of a star suck to the classic Scott, it adds another V4 boulder problem and takes you to the top of the cliff.

Climb Scott to the original anchors, place a runner on the anchor and climb up and right to a ledge system and the first bolt on the extension. It is critical here to not climb the choss directly above the anchor, take the path of least resistance which involves moving right out of the corner, then up to the first bolt. From here, step left ignoring the blank wall below the second bolt, make a few fun moves up to good pockets and slap for the lip of the wall onto typical tunnel slopers. Make a few engaging moves, a difficult second clip, and pull into a no hands stance in a corner system. Make a few easier but heady moves on marginal rock up to the anchors.

FA is considering re-bolting at some point to make it safer and easier to follow.

FA team wanted to grade this 11d, but since you have to climb Scott to get to the extension, seems like it should get at least 12a.

Location 

Extension of Scott

Protection 

Bolts to Anchors, adds two additional bolts to Scott.


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