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Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Criller  T,TR 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Good Mourning T,TR 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strata Outta Compton T 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Not sure
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 1 Lead Pin, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,295
Submitted By: David A. Turner on Sep 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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  • Description 

    This is a worthy route. It does not merit a serious rating if your nutcraft is good.

    Start as for Peanuts. Where that route cuts left at the overhang, head straight up the shallow dihedral/finger crack above. A green Alien in a placement below a pin adds to the comfort level. Clip a bolt and hoist yourself into a second dihedral/groove with another bolt at its top. More climbing up and left, then back right to clip the anchor.


    Standard rack, with Aliens.

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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 22, 2015
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Sep 26, 2003

    Did this recently and thought it was a great route, and relatively well protected too. This really is THE line started by Peanuts, and it seems as if Peanuts should be considered a variation to this route, not vice-versa. Nuts and Aliens and the fixed gear present can sew it up about as well as your standard Eldo route; and all of the hard moves have fixed pro right where you need it.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 19, 2004

    'S' only in the sense that it could be dangerous if gear blows. The piton looks suspect and the gear below it (green alien in the description above... I got a stopper which frees up the hold) is in a somewhat hollowish sounding flake. Steeper and pumpier than it looks.
    By Bob Rotert
    Oct 9, 2005
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    A worthy route and one of my favorite routes on Peanuts. Good climbing with a steep and pumpy crux. Doing this and linking it with Forbidden Planet on upper wall of Lower Peanuts makes for good outing on Lower Peanuts.
    By Taylor Roy
    From: Midvale, UT
    Apr 30, 2008

    There is a loose flake in the dihedral/groove at the top of this route. So be careful.
    By Richard Radcliffe
    From: Louisville, CO
    Jun 12, 2011

    The loose flake mentioned by Taylor is no longer there. I was almost through the dihedral crux and I suddenly found myself airborne along with the suspect flake. Nobody was hurt and my partner and I both think that the modification didn't really change the climb.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Aug 26, 2011

    A good route, and I was more nervous going into it than I should have been. It is a safe route as long as the pin holds (but you probably won't be falling onto it).

    Apparently I went the wrong way at the first bolt and climbed straight up the edgy face to the left of the bolt, instead of staying in the shallow dihedral to the right. I would say it's about 5.11 still, but if you think that is the route, the bolt placements seem really goofy, and the second bolt is really hard to clip.
    By Rob DeZonia
    Sep 6, 2011

    This thing is great. It's a great and long pitch if you climb it straight up into Air Guitar. I climbed it many times before my brother asked me if the giant flake you pull into through the crux made me nervous. He pointed out it was a bit rattly to me, and now I'm a little more paranoid about it.
    By Noah McKelvin
    From: Colorado Springs
    Aug 12, 2013
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    The climb is awesome up until the crux. I myself didn't enjoy the crux, but maybe that's cause I was trying to stay in the corner.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Jul 9, 2014

    The bolts are in terrible locations and make the crux avoiding tangling the rope in your feet and clipping.
    By Moritz B.
    Jul 6, 2015

    Clipping the first bolt is extremely pumpy. There are fixed draws on it right now. The first draw looks good. The second one has a sharp rope-end biner. Be careful.
    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Sep 22, 2015
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Pretty soft for the 11b and PG-13 rating.... I wouldn't be too concerned with the PG-13 tag. This thing protects very well in my opinion. I'm not even sure where there would be cause for concern? Anyway, this is a classic pitch on good stone with a variety of movement!

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