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Scorpion 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Hair, 1994
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: Ryan Marsters on Jan 1, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Route. Humming goes straight up the left side of t...

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Easy jugs lead to the first sling (needs replaced). Step right, clip a bolt and head up the arete. At the ledge a couple bolts later, either head straight up (careful of the ledge) or step left at slight easier.

The guidebooks mention this route works back left to top out the same as Humming a Song, however two new bolts (ti glue in) continue straight up the bolt line to a good anchor.

Location 

Short and Easy is a good/obvious route to locate on this wall. Several meters right, there's another 5.8 looking climb (really, one of the only ones at this grade) on a subtle arete called the playground. A few meters and routes further right past a shallow alcove is the start of humming a song and scorpion. Humming goes straight up and scorpion heads right. This is several meters left of the Escher cave.

Protection 

Several titanium glue in bolts and one mangy sling


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