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Scorpion Slab
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Scorpion Slab 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ben Folsom and Maura Hahnenberger Sept. 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,158
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Jan 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: The wall with Scorpion Slab, an unknown route and ...

Description 

The crux is getting off the ground, then climb up past eight? bolts to a two bolt & chain anchor on the summit of the formation.

Location 

If you park at the corral south of the main Ibex area, walk north under some crags and then west up the hill to the base of a nice looking, wall. Approach takes about 5 minutes. There are two routes on the slab, an easier 5.6? which is bolted to the left, and Scorpion Slab is on the right.

Protection 

Quickdraws. An optional but not needed smaller cam (3/4") can be used near the top.


Photos of Scorpion Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bangladesh feeling like the Scorpion King.
Bangladesh feeling like the Scorpion King.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rope digging just past the middle bulge.  I'm gonn...
Rope digging just past the middle bulge. I'm gonn...

Comments on Scorpion Slab Add Comment
Show which comments
By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

James' comment is spot-on. Getting off the ground is difficult and a little tricky with a spooky, sharp, boulder to break your fall. One section of 5.8 above with some moderate climbing above and between. Glad to see Tartantula to the left is rated 5.8...!... not the 5.6 shown on the photo topo.
By Ben Folsom
Mar 23, 2009

seems easier (and safer than) The Fingertip Variation (5.8) in LCC, The Nutcracker (5.8) in Yosemite, Satans Corner (5.8) in LCC, North Chimney of Castleton (5.8+) etc... At least that's how it felt when we did it. Ratings are pretty subjective anyway, just a general guide to help people climb in the general difficulty range that they want. There are always surprises, good and bad days, etc... Nothing so subjective can be very accurate.
By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Mar 24, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Indeed indeed. Thanks for the route :)
By D. Durrant
From: Utah, USA
Jul 16, 2010

I hooked up with Tim one day last October, and climbed a couple of routes he had just finished bolting on the right side of the slab. I remember the routes were slabby at the bottom with nice climbing through the middle portions. The right most route had a ledge just below the top where you could rest before you pulled the last couple of moves. I thought the climbing was fun and both routes seemed to be around 5.9. We also worked another of his projects just to the right of the Scorpion slab, but the thing was way out of my reach, and on that day it was out of Tim's.

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