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Scorpion Exile S,TR 
South Face TR 

Scorpion Exile 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Griffith, Briggs, Becchio, & Tobish 1992
Page Views: 480
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Mar 31, 2011

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Rob Beno leading Scorpion Exile

Description 

Near the large oak tree at the base of Phantom Rock, climb up a left facing dihedral past a bolt. A large roof caps this dihedral. Traverse out left of the roof following a short horizontal finger/tips crack. Additional pro can be placed here, though the climbing is not too difficult. If you blow it, however, you will ground. A number 0 or 1 tcu (or small/med nut) fits nicely here. Up onto a small ledge, clip the next bolt, and step left around the arete onto the face. Above this, climb the upper dihedral past two more bolts to a two bolt anchor. A final cruxy move past the last bolt puts a smile on your face as you top out.

Location 

Obvious left-facing dihedral capped by a huge roof near the large oak tree at the southwest corner of Phantom Rock.

Protection 

4 bolts (3/8"), additional small pro for the horizontal finger/tips crack beneath the roof.


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By Richard Shore
Apr 1, 2011

One of my personal favorites at the grade in SB. Good rock with the exception of the bottom 5 feet, which clearly had some damage from the fire. There is also another route (a variation to Scorpion Exile) that goes directly through the steepest part of the roof past two bolts - Retro, 5.11c. Didnt climb it; looked kinda chossy in the overhang.

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