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Scissim 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Geoff Georges, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: geoff georges on Aug 12, 2015

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Description 

This is a three pitch connection of various cracks staying on the left side of the east face of Winterblock. The upper half of the east face is some sort of Diorite, climbs cracks like Granite.

pitch 1) 2nd route in from left, slanting crack to big ledge, 5.7

pitch 2) hand crack, face climb slab, blocky bulge can be bypassed on left into open book to chain anchor 5.6

pitch 3) directly above is overhanging finger and hand crack, highly recommend taping fingers- rough diorite. follow LFC to top out, anchor on buttress to the right. 10a

This could be climbed as 1 pitch, but I had requests to add anchor at top of 5.6 for those folks wishing to stop there.

Location 

furthest left of gear routes, near the South face. Starts at lower tier or just around corner from single bolt with fixed line, follow exposed ledge to slab with hand crack on right end.
There is a bolted route on the South buttress which is not in the X38 book, Scissim is around the corner to the right of that.

Protection 

single rack to 2". maybe more in finger size if doing 1 pitch.
My single rack is: blue, green, yellow, grey Alien, then #.5- #2 Camalot.
Chain anchor at top of 5.6 and 10a.
2 single rope raps to base


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