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YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: John Steiger, Herb North 1981
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jun 10, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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I gave this route is a bomb because of the nature of the rock. Big and small hollow flakes and pretty thin pro pretty far below you by today's standards at the crux.
To be fair, I was able to get pro I felt good about until the crux. I avoided the crux by bailing left on to Warm and Free. In fact if you want a little change while doing W&F do Scimitar until you reach a point where the route arches back left then just keep traversing on to W&F.
I did TR the section of the climb I avoided. The moves are hard and you will be a good way (old school) above the RP and small cams before you get the next good gear. From this point you get some really fun thin flake lay back climbing. This flake is really hollow and I would be afraid to fall on a cam behind it.
The A0 section will go free as I have done the moves on TR. It is probably the hardest slab climbing I have ever done. I am disappointed the lower section is so unnerving rock wise. I might try to do it as a variation of W&F just because it would be cool to do such a hard section of slab.


Same start as Warm and Free but moves right into the flake system.


Doubles to blue Camalot. Thin stuff with steel or brass 00 cams.

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By John Steiger
Jun 10, 2013

That thar bomb are fighting wurds, no damn respect ... (more unintelligible grumbling).
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 17, 2013

Mad respect John. You seem to have had a lot more huevos than good sense back then. Those flakes in places really don't inspire confidence in the cams shoved behind them. It is a fun top-rope!
By John Steiger
Aug 24, 2013

Hence the name, dude. For real terror, do Don't Look a Gift Block.

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