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Scientific Americans 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: blakeherrington on Mar 7, 2015

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Description 

Another rad pitch that sees almost no traffic. It was given .12a in the original Clint Cumins guide, which I think it definitely earns in relation to other lowertownwall classics. Begin on tenuous knob climbing via Little Jupiter (short version) or Big Science - Both of which end on a ledge 50' up. These are rated .11d or .12b respectively to the 50' ledge/anchors. From the ledge, clip a bolt and climb up and right into a fun and juggy flake (.10) which takes great finger-sized gear. After the flake ends, a few bolts lead past a very tenuous crux crimping on perfect stone, with a few hero jugs over the roof to the chains.

This pitch used to have a huge railroad spike bashed into a pocket up high for slingable pro- this has been removed and replaced with a normal bolt. There is an extension which feature an immediate crux rated .12b or .12c in the various books, and which requires some additional gear and has a few bolts.

Location 

Begin in the small corner just left of the door to nowhere (or begin in the flake just right of the door). The independent section of this pitch starts from a ledge 50' off the ground.

Protection 

10-12 QDS, and 3-4 cams from .4-.75BD


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By Ol Toby
From: CA
May 30, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The crux section on this pitch is fantastic. Excellent moves between crisp crimps see you through the blankest section. Quite worthwhile.

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