|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]|
|FA:||Todd Swain and Peggy Buckey, 1986|
|Submitted By:||Adam Stackhouse on Oct 8, 2008|
|Comments on Scientific Americans||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 21, 2003
Both bolts on Scientific Americans (between Jack of Hearts and Popular Mechanics) were replaced 1/2003.
By Eric Foltz
Jun 14, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Like it says in the description, this route probably isn't a real "R".
The only place you notice the lack of bolts is between the 1st bolt and the horizontal and the moves are fairly easy. A .75 for the first horizontal a smaller piece (Orange Metolius) for the second horizontal and a #2 BD for the step across will get you up.
Fun route but the "R" keeps it from getting the traffic it deserves.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 30, 2014
|Plenty of gear options for the two horizontals -1.5"-2" stuff. You may also consider bringing extra extendable runners for an easier line, in particular at the 2nd bolt and if you plan on placing any gear in the slot after crossing over to the wall behind. Fun route, not run out in any areas of 5.8 climbing. The "crux" if there is one is at the 1st bolt so well protected. Step across to the back wall looks intimidating but it quite fun. Be mindful of the chalkstone in the slot/chimney, they're solid enough but best to be avoided.|