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Sunshine Wall Routes
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Science Friction 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Mike Baker, solo. (5-1-98)
Page Views: 9,044
Submitted By: DaveB on Oct 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Stepping high into right-angling seam (hidden from...

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  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A nice route, especially for aspiring slab leaders. (Yes, there are such people...)

    Technical crux is well protected (between bolts 3-5). The "mental" crux begins mid-route at the odd and tricky right-angling seam (sandy in spots). A couple widely-spaced drilled pitons protect this section. Follow seam to top.

    Occasional rests....to reflect and question yourself, of course.

    Location 

    Quarter mile right of the the Naked Lady Boulder (cowboy art). The tallest section of Sunshine Wall. Route (bolted) begins low center of face, right of large boulder, and stays left of obvious crescent/sickle feature mid-wall.

    Protection 

    12-13 draws. Bolts, drilled pitons.
    Anchors.
    Double-rope rappel.


    Photos of Science Friction Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Science Friction
    Science Friction
    Rock Climbing Photo: Getting started.
    Getting started.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Terry nearing the last drilled piton of the upper ...
    Terry nearing the last drilled piton of the upper ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Here is the run out section to the anchors.
    BETA PHOTO: Here is the run out section to the anchors.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Erica reaching the bolts on the Science Friction M...
    Erica reaching the bolts on the Science Friction M...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Here are the anchors with bullet holes in the wall...
    Here are the anchors with bullet holes in the wall...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Outlined is the bolted route. after you go over th...
    BETA PHOTO: Outlined is the bolted route. after you go over th...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Science Friction (5.9+). Sunshine Wall, Arches Nat...
    BETA PHOTO: Science Friction (5.9+). Sunshine Wall, Arches Nat...

    Comments on Science Friction Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Dennis of Mazo
    Oct 11, 2016

    CONDITION REPORT 
    I really like this climb. Did it for the second time,hope these comments would be
    useful. I would call this benchmark 9+ for climbers with some sandstone experience. As for the PG rating the start could be much more serious than the
    easy upper sections. Choices for the start: (1) stick clip the 1st bolt, climb
    directly to the 1st bolt. 5.9 (2)climb directly over the large hole and boulder to
    the bolt. 5.9R spot great or don't fall. (3) 5.10 climb up left of bolt above the
    large boulder you could land back on (crux at 3rd bolt felt easier)
    just sayin'............... Dennis
    PS anchors great at this time, but yeah, all angled to pull-out load factors. If you doubt it's bullet holes you see just walk around the corral and look, they're
    obvious around here. Glad to see 2 other new anchors close now.
    By Ladd
    Administrator
    Dec 7, 2007

    Yikes!
    By John Ross
    From: Wasatch Front, UT
    Dec 7, 2007

    Under "Protection" add Kevlar vest and helmet!
    By Dave Fiorucci
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Dec 7, 2007

    See bomb proof anchor discussion. mountainproject.com/v/climbing...
    By Kevin Rivard
    From: Canon City, CO
    Aug 9, 2010
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

    Very well protected. crux around the second and third bolts.