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Science Friction Wall 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: See comments below.
Page Views: 924
Submitted By: cjdrover on Jun 20, 2014

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P.Ross and Kim Smith on the FA of the Final pitch ...


So, historically Science Friction Wall is a full-length climb up the South Buttress. However, in modern times only the 4th (crux) pitch is commonly done. Even this pitch has a complicated history with 3 separate finishes - this entry describes the most common, known as the Webster Finish.

Begin at the end of Sky Streak, opting to take the left hand finish and belay at three bolts under a small roof. Pass the roof on the right, then follow intricate climbing, clipping the (upgraded) bolts up the black streak which marks a blunt arete. A large undercling flake marks the crux - hard climbing leads to the right of the bolt line. At the end of the crux sequence, traverse right on fantastic, airy 5.10 face climbing hundreds of feet in the air. Two bolts lead to the ledge at the top of the Last Unicorn.


As mentioned, in the middle of the Wonder Wall. Begin on Sky Streak, then trend left to obvious roof.


All quickdraws, 12 or so.

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From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Nov 17, 2014

From guide book North Conway Rock Climbs by Jerry Handren .........
P1) Doug Madara ,Alain Comeau. July 4th 1978.
P1a) Uwe Schnider ,Chris Stevens April 29 1991.
P2)Ed Webster ,Sue Patenaude Sept 1980.
P2a (first complete ascent by the direct original finish)Paul Ross, Kim Smith July 11 1978.

FFA (via direct finish P2a) Steve Larson Scott Stevenson,Dec 1991
P2b.Jim Surette Steve Larson,Harrison Decker Sept 1985
By cjdrover
From: Watertown, MA
Dec 18, 2014

Hi Paul - Thanks for pointing that out. When I first loaded the route I just had P4 in mind and listed the FA for that pitch. I've updated the listing, but the route entry itself could use an update describing the rest of the pitches (I haven't gotten back up there to try the rest yet). Would you like to take over the page? I think an admin can switch the ownership over to you if you'd like. -Chris

ETA: Upon review it looks the like the MP FA field does not support enough characters to properly list the entire history. Updated to reference the comments.
By Caz Drach
From: Sugarhouse, UT
May 1, 2017

EXCELLENT ROUTE! Great climbing with fun movement. Do not miss!

Beta / Route specifics:

Pitch 1 - A little spicy after the bouldery Sky Streak start, the 2nd bolt on the slab section is not immediately obvious until you're on top of it. It's an older SMC but it's there. After that break left to the next bolt and then mini roof anchor.

Pitch 2 - Count your draws. After the 10th bolt start looking right for the bolts leading to the Last Unicorn ledge (2 more), don't be like me and start heading into the 12 B/C direct finish... the traverse is superb and thoughtful

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