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Science Diet 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: T. Roberts
Page Views: 362
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Climb up using jugs to reach the overhang. Traverse right and stem out using shallow pockets to reach the next bolt. From here, work your way higher into the roof to reach the 3rd bolt in the roof, utilizing 2 cool ribbons in the roof. Continue to traverse right under the roof until you reach a large ribbon sidepull. From here, follow the flake system up and right until you reach a shallow overhang. From here, you can either continue out right and up a thin face to chains or you can detour on to the finish of Bitten, 5.12a by pulling the overhang and going straight up. This route is a bear to clean, it's easiest to clean on TR.

Location 

Locate the obvious low roof at the left end of the cliff. Start below the furthest left bolt on the left end of the overhang.

Protection 

12 bolts, chains. Longer runners help cut down on rope drag.


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By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
May 17, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A great route with multiple cruxes as it snakes it's way up the face; the use of longer draws will help keep any rope drag in check.

Note that this is the first bolt line from the left with Bitten starting just to the right and joining this route at the 3rd bolt; higher Bitten breaks out left at the 8th bolt for one more bolt to anchors whereas this continues up past four more bolts to anchors.

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