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Schwarzer Streifen 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: S. Löw 1988
Page Views: 12
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Aug 11, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

This is one scary ass route, but super quality. If it had two extra bolts it would be polished from all of the traffic and would get 3 or 4 stars. The route starts by climbing the pillar to the left of the wall, then mounting the wall and finally clipping the first bolt. The climbing follows jugs and good stances and is at about a 85° angle, meaning you shouldn't pump out. But the fear of the huge fall potentials could add a lot to the pump factor if you can't relax and control the fear.

Location 

The names of this grouping of routes is freshly painted on the wall, as well as their general line.

Protection 

3 bolts + single bolt anchor. You could place friends or tri-cams in the solution pockets to help calm you down, but please don't place them in the actual holds.


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