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Bon Voyage T,TR 
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Schooner T,TR 

Schooner 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 1970's?
Season: Dry
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: Nick Black on Dec 18, 2015  with updates from Evan Wisheropp

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Arching finger crack right and below Clipper Ship, same finish as Clipper Ship. Surprisingly steep!

Location 

right of Clipper, tied block for an anchor or a 4 and a 5 if you have it.

Protection 

Small gear, blue metolious is the smallest needed


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By Mike Horan
Sep 5, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Some questionable rock quality in spots. Had little pieces break off while climbing it. The finger crack right before it joins up with the 5.6 and the hand crack after that seemed solid enough for cams though.

I couldn't find where to put the larger cams for the anchor? The top was all loose rock, so ended up building the anchor at the top of the crack which made for a less than ideal walk off.

Easier than it looks from the ground. No move harder than 5.7, added the + due to rock quality.

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