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Schoolroom T 
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Schoolroom Direct Variation T 
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Schoolroom Direct Variation 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,016
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Mar 20, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (140)
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Gone smearin'

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This is a superb way to start Schoolroom, but it is much harder than anything else on that route. Climb the steep gorgeous finger and hand crack about 40' right of the regular Schoolroom start. At the end of the crack, a few spooky moves left on friction gain the regular route. I didn't think this was very R rated, but it wouldn't be fun to fall on the insecure friction moves.


Stoppers, fingers and hand sized cams.

Photos of Schoolroom Direct Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Schoolroom direct towards The Hook and variation
Schoolroom direct towards The Hook and variation
Rock Climbing Photo: This guy was rope soloing the route. Here he is ma...
This guy was rope soloing the route. Here he is ma...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here I stand just above the crack portion of the d...
Here I stand just above the crack portion of the d...
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch of Schoolroom. This is me having swap...
Second pitch of Schoolroom. This is me having swap...
Rock Climbing Photo: After the fourth pitch, schoolroom direct, the eas...
After the fourth pitch, schoolroom direct, the eas...
Rock Climbing Photo: Good exposure...
Good exposure...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gwen just before the allegedly "R" trave...
Gwen just before the allegedly "R" trave...

Comments on Schoolroom Direct Variation Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 6, 2016
From: Englewood, CO
Jun 22, 2004

I feel this is a much better variation to Schoolroom. This route wanders enough as it is. I didn't feel that this start was that much harder than the other pitches. Very fun climb!!
By James Naus
Jul 22, 2004

This is a Good way to start schoolroom. There is one hard move at the bottom that protects well with a stoper then a nice slab move that is not hard up higher. If I do this variation I set up a belay about 15 feet past the top of the big chimney and let my second have the nice fun finger crack on the second pitch.
By vincent pierce
Sep 23, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Definately the way to start Schoolroom.
By Nathan Fisher
Oct 14, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Agreed. Agreed. Agreed. Start Schoolroom here.
By Lee Gitlin
Oct 15, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This variation seemed preferable to the original, perambulatory 5.6 line. It is a little spooky to traverse out onto the face with your last piece of pro below your feet, but two moves gets you to a bomber, dinner plate sized chicken head. After gaining that chicken head, it looked like you could place a small cam into a crack. I'm guessing it would be maybe 15 feet between pieces? From there, you are into the gully and back on Schoolroom.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The lower crack is well protected with a spot of 5.7, and the slab is insecure 5.7 that is definitely R rated. Your last pro is well below your feet and a fall would be ugly. After a few thin moves, you can get a good small cam in a finger-sized crack before rejoining the regular Schoolroom route.
By Anonymous Coward
May 24, 2005

Pro doesn't have to be way below your feet. There is a great nut or pink tricam righ in the block you stand on before the R moves, just runner it long, and slab away! Great thought provovking move. Seen this stymie hard sport climbers! trust those feet it's LCC!
By Nathan Fisher
May 25, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Rock seemed way solid last year or earlier this year. I didn't question the piece at all. I placed a small nut way on the right side of the crack at your feet.
By Warren Harding's Ghost
From: Big Wall Purgatory
Sep 12, 2006

Use one of them new fangled 60 Meter ropes, and some prudent runnering...and you can go all the way to the Hook ledge.
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jun 4, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

is this really an R rated climb?
By Riddler
From: Centerville, UT
Nov 5, 2008

I don't think it's R. The gear is just a few feet below your feet when you make the slab traverse. Some creative use of the big flat chickenhead eliminated a slab move or two for me. This is a much better way to start schoolroom than the pointless block scramble and downclimb/traverse of schoolroom.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
May 24, 2009

The R is for the slab traverse to gain the arcing crack left of the 1st pitch. Note this is the best way to string the first few pitches of school room together. You can link pitches 1-3 this way. making your time up on the school room much shorter if time is your enemy.
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree..start Schoolroom here, and the slab move is a bit heady but not too difficult.
By Donovan
From: West Jordan, Utah
Oct 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Couple of finger locks and foot jams will do the trick here. First time up this I ran into a whole load of bees just below the runout section. Is there a rating to incorporate bees? Like 'B'?
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

This isn't quite a runout climb (can we make a 1/2R rating?) since you're never really too high above your gear at the crux. Though if you fell on the easier terrain before the crack then you could get seriously hurt. I agree with Woodson, more bold than hard. One of the key knobs is greased with chalk making the move feel harder than 5.7.

Found a tick on my backpack at the base of the climb, so be careful.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 11, 2013

Totally better way to start; but not a great line to start leading on. The opening crack is a gimme, but yeah, the slab moves are a little committing. Could be a bit nerve wracking for a first time trad leader.
By James Garrett
Apr 15, 2013

So Crisco, where should one learn how to belay?
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 1, 2013

I felt the runout section is PG13 in actual distance but the hurt factor from a slip would probably be equivalent to an R rating nonetheless. The slab requires a couple moves of commitment then, yes, you can get a very good small cam in a crack to protect the rest.
By S.Cohen
Mar 10, 2014

Nice start to the Schoolroom. A few nice finger locks and a few nice jams! Good start to gain the hook if bushwack is busy.
By lech
Mar 2, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The high traverse pitch is better than it looks. The belay stances are all great. Fun climb.
By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is not an R route. You can get in a bomber piece of gear at your feet before you make two moves on a 5.7 slab to a huge shelf. Not R in the least bit.

This variation should be the standard for anyone climbing Schoolroom, super fun and infinitely better than the standard first pitch of schoolroom.

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