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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 1,378
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 4, 2009

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This is a great long route! Start by climbing up and make some techy moves to reach excellent holds under the overhang. From here, score a bomber hand jam at the base of the crack in the overhang, find some feet out right, and work your way up the crack aiming for an awesome pocket out left (crux). After pulling the roof, continue up vertical face following a few crack systems. The wall will begin to get slightly overhung and then go back to low angle. As the route turns from overhung to slabby, the holds get a bit slopping. When you get to the top, be sure to look around and enjoy the nice view upstream of the 4th buttress. This route will use every bit of a 60M rope.


When approaching the 2nd Buttress from the 1st Buttress, this is the 2nd bolted line to the left of the large leaning rock tunnel. Locate the large orange hueco. This line climbs the left line out of the hueco through the crack in the roof.


10 bolts, shuts. There are many placements that can be made throughout the route to supplement the bolts if so inclined, but they are certainly not necessary.

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By BrianWS
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

After climbing nearly every 12- sport route in the gorge, this one still stands out as my favorite. The rock quality, diversity of terrain and movement, awesome crux, and stellar views are hard to beat. Climb above the anchors and top out for the full experience.

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