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Schmeming 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ken Kisiel, Dennis Newell, and Scott Beguin FFA: Josh Smith
Page Views: 763
Submitted By: Wa3lt on Nov 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Schmeming is #4

Description 

This route was first freed using traditional gear placements for the first 25 feet. Later, the FA party allowed bolts to be added to this otherwise R-rated section. The route is sustained, tricky, and thin throughout - bring your crimping fingers and be ready to keep your eyes on your feet!

Location 

Located to the left of Early Arete.

Protection 

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 16, 2007

Pretty heinous hand-jamming at the start, and some hard-core stemming throughout. This things kinda schizophrenic--not sure if its a splitter crack, a dihedral, an arete, or a thin face.
By Scott Beguin
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

First Ascent Party was Ken Kisiel, Dennis Newell, and Scott Beguin, before it was retrobolted by team Bradshaw by approval of the first ascensionists. I believe Josh Smith bagged the first free ascent after bolts were added.
By Josh Smith
Jun 23, 2008

Not that it matters, but I did it before the bolts went in. Spicy. Good route, and better now that it's better protected.

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