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Schizophrenic Slab S 

Schizophrenic Slab 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Matt Myers, Chris Schuessler 11-6-2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,194
Submitted By: MattMyers on Nov 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Matt on the FA!


A technical slab that takes a beautiful and exposed line up the Over Head Wall. Start from either the Renaissance ledge or climb as a continuation to Bad Boys. Climb up and right past closely spaced bolts at the crux and scariest section,then higher up when the climbing eases off the bolts become more spaced out.


The Rightmost line on the Over Head Wall. Directly above "Bad Boys".


10 Bolts, Chain Anchor

Photos of Schizophrenic Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising slab in the sun!!
Cruising slab in the sun!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on the FA!!!!!
Matt on the FA!!!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: topo

Comments on Schizophrenic Slab Add Comment
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By MattMyers
Dec 25, 2012

This is such a good slab route i dont know why noone climbs it.
By David Lyons
From: Forest Falls, CA
Apr 18, 2013

What is the pitch above this rated - then one with no chains, just bolts 20' over the edge? It felt like mid-10 to me.
By Clint W.
Oct 13, 2013

I've climbed this route twice now and love it! Such a quality slab with some rad mental and physical moves traversing out above the huge overhang.
By Alex Fletcher
From: San Clemente, CA
Sep 16, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I really wanted to like this route, but my new shoes fitting too loosely kept me from trusting my feet. Made the technical slab climbing essentially impossible for me. I'll have to come back later and do this again before I give it any sort of proper ratings.

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