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Calaveras Dome
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Fallen Angel T 
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Layin' On The Hands T 
Medicine Man T 
Mighty Joe Young T 
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Old Smokey T 
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Schizophrenic Dike T 
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Schizophrenic Dike 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Fall
Page Views: 1,408
Submitted By: Vlad S on Mar 9, 2015

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2nd approach pitch. Silk Road corner is visible in...

Description 

Is it a crack? Is it a dike? One of the best pitches at Calveras Dome and it's a geological gem! It sits a few pitches up under the Laughing Hyenas arch and finishes at the apex of the arch. You have to climb two pitches to access it - each deserving about 2 quality stars. The easiest option:

1. 160 ft, 10b. This is the first pitch of Rastaman Vibrations. Start on a right trending ramp just right of the bolted routes, then mantle up and follow another left trending ramp until you get to the tricky corner/arete. Here you can either climb straight up with questionable gear or better bust out left to the bolts and follow them up. Clip a head or two higher up in between the bolts to arrive at a comfy stance with a bolted anchor.
2. Here Rastaman splits to the right via a 5.12 finger crack. Another 50 ft 10b pitch with a short crux leads up and left to the 2nd set of anchors. This is probably the 2nd pitch of Laughing Hyenas.
3. At this point you have 3 options all of which are stellar. The arching layback of Laughing Hyenas is 11c with no move easier or harder than about 10+/11-. Wicked pump awaits. Schizophrenic Dike traverses left to an obvious bolt at the start of the dike and follows that all the way up to the same anchor. You'll get another bolt at the very end of the pitch for the tricky crux. 150 ft, 10c.

The 3rd option is to traverse hard left at 5.8 clipping 1 bolt along the way to another bolted anchor and the start of Mr. Stiffy - an awesome 11a finger crack. This traverse is easy to skip by rapping straight down from Schizophrenic Dike anchor.

To descend rap straight down to one of two anchors with rings on either side of the "V-dihedral" with two ropes or rap to the left and climb Mr. Stiffy.

Location 

50 feet left of Silk Road corner and 2 pitches up.

Protection 

Doubles to #1 camalot, single #2 camalot with emphasis on very thin. RPs are useful. 10 draws. 2 ropes.


Photos of Schizophrenic Dike Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken mid-pitch.
Taken mid-pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the dike pitch.
Starting the dike pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Monica leading the Schizophrenic Dike under the Hy...
Monica leading the Schizophrenic Dike under the Hy...

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