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A Red Recollection S 
Block Party TR 
Crack left of Leftwing T,TR 
Eaten Alive T 
Espionage S 
Fahrenheit 23 S 
Great White Top Rope TR 
Leftwing S 
Long Time Coming 
More Choss Than Moss TR 
Nordwand, The S 
Now or Never S 
Nut Job T,TR 
Pocket Warmup S 
Purple Jeep TR 
Quail Stew T,S 
Schizophrenia S 
Secret Agent Man S 
Top Rope Hero TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Unknown / "Meaner than Green" S 
Unlisted Number S 
Warm Up 1 S 
Warm Up 2 S 
Unsorted Routes:

Schizophrenia 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 2,404
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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John Schmacher mid route.

Description 

Schizophrenia climbs the left hand version of the two routes on the first tall golden wall. They share the first 4 bolts. Crux at about 2/3 height leads to some amazing jugs up high.

Location 

First wall you come to when walking up the trail from the horse trail.

Protection 

9 bolts with 2 chain anchors. Bring draws for the top if you plan to lower or TR.


Photos of Schizophrenia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Luke Kiefer
Luke Kiefer
Rock Climbing Photo: Luke Kiefer
Luke Kiefer
Rock Climbing Photo: "Schizophrenia" and "Unknown"
BETA PHOTO: "Schizophrenia" and "Unknown"

Comments on Schizophrenia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradiban
Jun 26, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Huston calls this "Mean and Green" in his topo found here: scribd.com/document/74534847/Q...
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

These two routes share the first 4 bolts, then diverge. Different anchors. Climbs very differently if you stay left of the bolts at the crux overhanging bulge or right of the bolt line.
By Tradiban
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Good route, it seems to me now that the route crux at the bulge is right of the bolts and the crux bolt is easily clipped off a jug.

It looked like left of the bolts there were decent holds but no more and to climb them would be a 12+ effort.
By Tradiban
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I climbed left of the bolts at the bulge today, a touch harder than right of the bolts, probably 5.12a.
By Tradiban
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Chris, all routes now have leaver biners except SAM and those anchors to the left of SAM for Top Rope Hero. You are all welcome.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 5, 2011

few bolts on this rig are protruding from the wall. could be replaced and/or reinforced with glue.

super fun crux, btw. some holds have broken there, as well. makes for some exciting moves.
By Dylan B.
Aug 16, 2014

This route is really ready for a rebolting effort. The bottom four bolts are all very questionable. The first is a rusty old thing that's jammed in an upside down position. The second and fourth are both spinners. The third is positioned so the biner on your draw is leveraged over an edge. There's another spinner up much higher.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 26, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I used to think staying left of the bolts at the crux bulge overhang was harder than staying right, but I think they are about the same now. Maybe holds have broken over the past few years?

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