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Schimmelecke Rock Climbing 

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Location: 49.6514, 11.424 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 114
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jul 1, 2013
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The name means „Mold corner“ in English, but is actually a quite nice crag and I have no idea why it got its name. It is isolated, very quiet and peaceful, sunny in the morning, and has a great view of the forest from the top. The crag is about 90 feet tall, and the routes are pretty well protected (could be better though). There is a total of nine routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.11d. The climbing is on mostly solid rock and looks like it will mostly follow features, but when actually climbing you’ll often find many pockets which you didn’t see before.
I originally thought, "I'll just post a crappy description when I get home because nobody will ever come here", but it's actually a nice place and worth a visit. Plus, after climbing, you can go back to where you parked your car and enjoy a good beer and Fränkische food.

Getting There 

From Betzenstein:
Traveling towards Plech, follow the road towards Klausberg (right turn before you leave Betzenstein). You’ll also notice a sign for Reuthof. Continue following the signs towards Reuthof. When you get there, park.
From Plech:
Drive towards Betzenstein. 200m after Ottenhof turn left towards Klausberg and follow the signs for 4km to Reuthof. Park here and

Hike along the trail into the woods towards Eibgrat for 60m, then take a left to follow the blue ring markings. The marking for this trail turns into a red dot after about 200m, which you’ll continue following when you reach an intersection (follow it to the left). After 300m and right after a little field you’ll enter the forest and it will start to go downhill. Turn right onto a little, unmarked path. Follow this to a bench, which you will reach in roughly 150m. This is on top of the crag. To reach the climbing, go back about 15m and turn right down a very small, faint climber’s trail. Follow this down and around to the right to eventually get to a fixed line and then the crag.

Climbing Season

For the Frankenjura area.

Weather station 23.1 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

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Weischroute 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Europe : Germany : ... : Schimmelecke
For me, the hardest part was at the 3rd bolt, but I also kind of screwed it up… For a friend, the crux was at the top. In any case, the beginning is hard, the middle easy, and the end also difficult, but the beginning and end are also great because you keep finding fantastic holds that you weren’t expecting. They may take some clever body positioning to maximize their usefulness, though....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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