REI Community
Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallowtail T 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown, 1950's
Page Views: 8,568
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jan 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (85)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Katherine gets her lieback/smear/jam on during the...


Scheister starts just up the ramp just left of Crushed Velvet (bolted face) and the Farley lieback. It is just uphill from Harding's chimney. Start up the ramp, and then work into the chimney. It is pretty easy at first, stem as long as possible. It narrows down, and then you must pull out of it onto the face (crux.)

You can belay at the shelf, or continue up a little farther and belay at the bolted stance which is the p2 anchor of Crushed Velvet. Continue up the big corner, move left under the roof, and then hike up and back right and up another corner to the summit notch. belay here, then tunnel out the back.


see description


standard rack. A #4 camalot or equivalent is needed to protect the crux.

Photos of Scheister Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher up on Scheister.
Higher up on Scheister.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me being a bad belayer. Nick leading p2 of Scheist...
Me being a bad belayer. Nick leading p2 of Scheist...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Scheister.
Starting up Scheister.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of Scheister.  Exiting the squeeze.
The crux of Scheister. Exiting the squeeze.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the the third and final pitch of scheis...
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the the third and final pitch of scheis...

Comments on Scheister Add Comment
Show which comments
By phatline
From: Burlingame, CA
Mar 16, 2007

Wish I extended my #4 before the crux, because the chimney narrows so much that I had to leave the crack--ended up inverting the cam from the outward tugs.

Also I recommend doing the tunnel-through finish as indicated here, or if you go right (as I did), be mindful of rope drag
By Chris DeWitt
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Encountered all the same problems phatline did. We didn't have a #4 cam for the crux which made it a bit more scary.

There was one rather loose largish rock on the second pitch that I could see possibly falling in the future.

Otherwise a great route.
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 8, 2010

The loose block that Chris may be commenting on I believe is on a right facing wider crack to the left of the usual left facing dihedral second pitch.

The 3rd pitch seems to have a few variations. The usual way you climb up a fun groove, go through a hole and then up a short but strenuous flaring chimney. An alternate variation is to turn right before the hole. It climbs a slab past a bolt and then continues up past another bolt or two to the summit. I believe the first variation to be easier and more classic. Watch for rope drag on both variations.
By Ryan Kosh
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 11, 2010

The first variation listed above seems to be unprotected, but easier (there is a chopped bolt at your face before entering the summit chimney, but I didn't see any other pro)

The second variation is well-protected with two bolts (look further right if you see a bad machine bolt)

Rope drag is bad on both.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 11, 2012

I think I did the second variation? This pitch only has one bolt that I saw, however.

Third pitch: Sling everything long and don't place too much protection. Extend your anchor from the summit bolts in order to belay at the top of the final chimney exit, and - Voila! - minimal rope drag.

Consider a rope tug system worked out for communication on the third pitch if there's much wind up there.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Feb 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A great finish is to climb the 2nd half of the 3rd pitch of Blue Velvet. On Scheister's 3rd pitch, when you're standing on the ledge after the slab, but before the easy gully, look up and slightly left and you'll see a bolt. Follow the line up the steep face. You'll finish on a ledge a short traverse left of the tunnel through.
By Kyle Napierkowski
Nov 27, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Beautiful weather at Sugarloaf this weekend. Climbed Scheister for the first time and would highly recommend it, as a beginner multipitch leader I had a blast. I'll toprope 10a outdoors and 11a/b in the gym, and this 5.7+ was very manageable for me, with no "oh shit" moments.

We took the tunnel finish, very satisfying topping out through it! I was happy to have extended the BD #4 and 3.5 I placed in the first pitch chimney, as mentioned above.

Full trip report and some more pics
By Russell Cohen
From: Redwood City, California
Apr 7, 2016

Went to climb scheister. Scared the shit out of myself by accidentally climbing hardings chimney (5.8R) instead. Make sure you're on the right route!!! If you get to the start of the chimney and there are 2 pitons, you're in the wrong place!
By Brad Pavik
From: Granite bay
Oct 10, 2016

This route is awesome, but that could be due to the fact that it was my first multi-pich trad climb. The first pitch can be protected with a #3 c4 if you scoot it up with you deep on the crack, however, I strongly suggest you bring two #3 camlots or larger to protect the first pitch comfortably.. or don't to spice thing up a bit( i lived and only had one #3).

As for the finish, the tunnel through is a waste of time in my opinion and just adds rope drag and communication issues. I originally did the tunnel through and the climbing basically ends once you are at that point. I felt cheated so when I got my partner to the top I rappelled off and hit the alternate finish and was much more satisfied. When you get to the tunnel, rather that going in it, look up and to the right and go that way. There is one lone bolt for protection before you get to the anchors on top of the dome.

Don't forget you can walk off (scramble), It's not obvious though
By Eric MC
From: Oakland, CA
May 10, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Was glad to have two #4s, as a chimney novice. Went right side in the whole time, my partner went left side in and switched sides at the crux. Not sure which is better.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About