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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
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"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Bullit - 2nd Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Electrician’s Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Medussa (1st alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Steve's Twilight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Dick Peterson & Ed Lawson Aug. 1981 |
| Page Views: | 968 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Nov 7, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
MP doesn't have a 5.6+ listing, so I erred on the side of caution and listed it as a 5.7
This is a very worthy variation on Saber, so I gave it its own listing.
Once 5.6-5.7X, today two, 3/8 bolts have been added and the climb is now 5.6+ / 5.5 PG-13/R (for the opening 20 ft on Saber). Technically a variation to Saber, this is the far nicer climb. Another climb they would line up for at Whitehorse or Cathedral. The section moving past the bolts is somewhat similar to the upper face section of Arrow at the Gunks.
P1 START: Climb the first 30-40 feet of Saber but do not move left on the horizontal to the small but mighty pine tree.
Instead, step up onto the slab, climbing directly up to Bolt #1, over this ( 5.6+ 5.7-) on a beautiful clean, white rock to bolt #2. Directly over this (5.6+ / 5.7-) [or slightly easier to the left] and then run it out (5.3 -5.4 R) to the base of the lower of two arching cracks and protection (medium cam). Move right along the slab below the crack and below Saber, passing several small trees/shrubs, and then stepping right and up easy slab to reach the double bolt anchor on the right. 150 -160ft, 5.6+ / 5.7- ( 5.3-5.4R)
The climb has a 2nd pitch, but most will chose to end the climb here and rap down with 2 ropes. Alternately, a 20-25ft bushwhack through the woods leads back to the North Descent Gully's scramble to the base.
NOTE: The original P1 of Scepter climbed the slab above the crack to intercept Saber at the alcove. BUT, the alcove is a horrible place to belay, and isn't very comfortable to even climb around in. The route as described is nicer, but purists can follow through and intercept Saber if they would like!
P2 of Scepter (as per the 1st ascent) From the alcove ( a horrible, cramped belay) move right along the overlap and then surmount the overlap a few feet left of the dirty corner [and a few feet above the double bolt anchor] and finish up the slabs. 30-40 ft
This is a very worthy variation on Saber, so I gave it its own listing.
Once 5.6-5.7X, today two, 3/8 bolts have been added and the climb is now 5.6+ / 5.5 PG-13/R (for the opening 20 ft on Saber). Technically a variation to Saber, this is the far nicer climb. Another climb they would line up for at Whitehorse or Cathedral. The section moving past the bolts is somewhat similar to the upper face section of Arrow at the Gunks.
P1 START: Climb the first 30-40 feet of Saber but do not move left on the horizontal to the small but mighty pine tree.
Instead, step up onto the slab, climbing directly up to Bolt #1, over this ( 5.6+ 5.7-) on a beautiful clean, white rock to bolt #2. Directly over this (5.6+ / 5.7-) [or slightly easier to the left] and then run it out (5.3 -5.4 R) to the base of the lower of two arching cracks and protection (medium cam). Move right along the slab below the crack and below Saber, passing several small trees/shrubs, and then stepping right and up easy slab to reach the double bolt anchor on the right. 150 -160ft, 5.6+ / 5.7- ( 5.3-5.4R)
The climb has a 2nd pitch, but most will chose to end the climb here and rap down with 2 ropes. Alternately, a 20-25ft bushwhack through the woods leads back to the North Descent Gully's scramble to the base.
NOTE: The original P1 of Scepter climbed the slab above the crack to intercept Saber at the alcove. BUT, the alcove is a horrible place to belay, and isn't very comfortable to even climb around in. The route as described is nicer, but purists can follow through and intercept Saber if they would like!
P2 of Scepter (as per the 1st ascent) From the alcove ( a horrible, cramped belay) move right along the overlap and then surmount the overlap a few feet left of the dirty corner [and a few feet above the double bolt anchor] and finish up the slabs. 30-40 ft
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