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Scenic Byway 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: James and Franziska Garrett, 1992
Season: Year round depending on time of day
Page Views: 2,118
Submitted By: Ken Noyce on Jun 10, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Pitch 4

Description 

The route is four pitches long, but I've only done the first pitch myself, so I'll include information from the guidebook on the other pitches.

Pitch 1: This is an amazing 5.9 handcrack. The crux of the pitch comes right at the start where the crack is thin hands (.75 camalot) size for a few feet before you gain a big jug and the crack widens to perfect hands for the rest of the pitch. The pitch ends at the obvious 3 bolt anchor after maybe 75 feet.

Pitch 2: Continue up the crack which turns into an offwidth dihedral right after the anchors. This is the technical crux of the route at 5.10. At the top of the dihedral you'll see two bolts off to the right, this is the top of another route, at this point traverse left and continue up another 25 feet of easy climbing to the large belay ledge and build a gear anchor.

Pitch 3: I don't really know anything about this route other than the fact that it's 5.7 and ends at a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 4: Again, no personal info on this pitch, but it starts out by traversing right then continues up a crack and goes at 5.8, ending at another 2 bolt anchor.

Protection 

You should be good with a double set of cams up to 3" plus a couple of larger pieces for the offwidth on pitch 2.

From what I understand you can rap off the route in four single rope raps, I'm not sure if you can do it with a 60, but think so. For the third rap, use the anchors that you saw off to your right while climbing the second pitch.

Location 

This route is the leftmost route on the scenic byway wall and is the wall's namesake.


Photos of Scenic Byway Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 3
pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Behold!
BETA PHOTO: Behold!
Rock Climbing Photo: J-sexy on the the third and final rap. (Its 3 rapp...
J-sexy on the the third and final rap. (Its 3 rapp...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch #1 is SOOO good!
Pitch #1 is SOOO good!
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: My partner is at the base of the route. 1st crack ...
My partner is at the base of the route. 1st crack ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Pitch 1

Comments on Scenic Byway Add Comment
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By James Garrett
Jun 13, 2013

Interesting addition to the database and quite timely. I, too, have noticed that the upper pitches tend to get ignored and always wondered why.

I climbed the route again in early May and decided to retrofit the upper pitches adding a few glue-in bolts and mostly equipping the belays with chain. Pitch #3 and Pitch #4 (they didn't need to be as run out as they used to be) are practically my favorite pitches and though still only 5.8ish, they seem much more comfortable now as I enter my "Alpenheimer" years.

I really still like the 2 minute approach time best of all! Where else in the Desert can you get 4 such varied pitches? Hand crack to OW (take one #5 and you can totally zip it up) to a slab to Navajo face climbing...all no harder than 5.10-.

A wall register was added.

Rapping the route with ONE 70m rope works fine.
By BobGray
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 19, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The 3rd and 4th pitches were VERY runout and required some good routing finding ability to follow. The first two pitches were classic, the second two not so much. Now that the final two pitches have been retro-bolted they might deserve another look.
By Ryan202
From: West Jordan, UT
Sep 22, 2014

I felt there was more thin hands than just in the beginning of the first pitch. The offwidth second pitch trends to the right going across the face, giving an overhang feel which made it much more difficult than we thought it would be. 3rd pitch pretty much goes straight up past one bolt, then head up the really low angle but sandy feeling slab to the ~6ft vertical section and take a few steps to the right to the path of least resistance, unless I missed something. This is where (about half way up) I didn't feel comfortable with the consequence if I fell during the crux move; it was sandy, my cam was placed in the only spot available which the rock would probably break. After that there's a thin crack along the small corner but I didn't have a cam small enough, and couldn't quite get a good nut placement that I liked. I ended up down climbing, which probably had the same amount of danger to it anyway. There was only one bolt on the 3rd pitch. Maybe another time.
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Sep 30, 2014

As with any posts on this site, please take mine with a grain of salt. I’m fairly comfortable with swell style climbing, runouts, and really comfortable on 5.10. With that in mind, I thought this climb was great, and totally worth doing all 4 pitches. Sorry if I’m giving away too much here, but I’m just trying to promote doing the whole climb.

Pitch 1 Super fun. If you want to be very comfortable, bring three #1’s, and you could even use a #4 for the top. ( gear beta is in BD )

Pitch 2 is a lot easier than it looks, and quite fun. I bumped one #5 with me for a few moves, felt pretty safe, but you could bring two #5’s or a #5 & #6 if you want something between you and the belay at all times. Ditch the big gear at the top of this pitch.

Pitch 3 has a few slabby cruxes that could feel insecure if youre new to sandstone slab, but aren’t too hard. There are bolts ( I think 2 ) in good locations. I had a red c3 for the crack section ( amongst other gear ) and felt plenty comfortable.

Pitch 4 interesting crack climbing to a steep well bolted face, great pitch! Great Scenery! I thought you could put a few bolts in 20ft left of the route to have a fun alternate final pitch… if anyone is feeling motivated.
Enjoy!
By thehackattacks
From: Park City, UT
May 4, 2015

Wonderous variety on this--our first multi-pitch in the Swell! Its a peach James- a peach I tell ya!
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 22, 2017

Great route James! I had done the first pitch numerous time, finally got around to finishing. The 2nd pitch is spicy with a 4 and a 5. Might want an additional 5 or maybe even a 6. New glue-ins and anchors are in great shape. No need to use anchor under roof for third rappel (would be hard to get too anyway). From the now bolted 2nd pitch anchor/ledge you can rap to base with a single 70.

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