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(d) Aggro Gully
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Scene of the Crime 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: JB Tribout
Page Views: 1,276
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Despite its quality, this route sits somewhat neglected near the top of the Aggro Gully, due to a difficult mono move. Locals claim the crux one-finger crank is harder than any move on White Wedding, and still others say that if you have fat fingers, you won't be able to fit your middle finger in the pocket at all.

However, if you have the finger strength, this will be a quick tick. The climb starts with a tough boulder problem, then a sequential rightwards traverse to a good rest before climbing up to the crux. Grab a decent crimp with your right, then stuff your left middle finger (or ring) in the pocket, rock up on your right foot, and stab (with your right hand) for a good 3-finger pocket. More sequential pockets and crimps lead to a final pumping section and the chains.


This is at the top of the big ramp on the Aggro Wall, left of Aggro Monkey.


Bolts. There is a belay bolt which should be considered mandatory, or use a stick clip.

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By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Mar 31, 2016

Everybody seems to talk about how heinous the mono move on this route is. I personally thought that move was the easiest of the crux sections. The start is definitely the hardest moves but there is a section up higher moving into and out of a diagonal undercling that spit me off many times from the ground.

Also, the book mentions going out left is bad style and I completely disagree. Even for someone tall it would be a massive move and would definitely make it 13c.

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