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Scene of the Crime 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Steiger
Page Views: 3,105
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Feb 18, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Kurt Smith on Scene of the Crime (5.12c), Independ...


This is basically an extended boulder problem on killer crimps. It was the first rap-bolted route on the Pass and an early 12+ milestone in Colorado. This is the short, well-chalked face behind the huge evergreen down and right of Cryogenics.

Boulder high and make a hard first clip or stick clip the bolt. Continue up on ever-crimpier climbing to some sequential moves on poor sidepulls. There is a bit of a runout between bolts 2 and 3 but you probably wouldn't hit the deck.

You can take a piece to protect the easy finishing ground above the third bolt, as the route doesn't end until the big, recessed ledge.


This is a short route -- you'll need about six draws and maybe some long slings for the anchor if you plan on toproping it. 3 bolts; 2-bolt anchor with rap rings.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Image by Aspen Climbing Guides.
BETA PHOTO: Image by Aspen Climbing Guides.

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By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This route is super classic and one of the best I did at The Pass. Getting to the third bolt is pretty sketchy, and you would come pretty close to the ground if you fell. I think it's unfortunate that it was bolted like that, because the climbing is fantastic. I don't know why the mentality of old school climbers were to bolt routes so you would deck from 40 feet up. Sport climbing should be safe, and this route is not. Regardless, I think if you could have a huge runner hanging from the third bolt you could clip from a good sidepull right after the crux.
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 21, 2013

The crux seems to be around the first bolt. As you move past the second and third, the climbing eases. Then it's a runout (protectable with some gear) to the anchor above. More bolts might be nice for your peace of mind, but they are not necessary to keep you off the ground. The climbing is fantastic, bouldery power-endurance and oh so obvious from the road.
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Jun 22, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Valid points, but if you fell with your body at the third bolt, you would defidently hit the ground unless your belayer ran back. I took the fall a few moves after the second bolt and was coming close to the ground, that was my only point. I'm not saying to rebolt it, but just to feel solid before committing to those moves and even though the climbing is easier than the crux, the moves are still 11+.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 22, 2014

I think the first 2 bolts were moved to make it safer. I took a couple of lobbers trying to get to the clipping underclean at the 3rd bolt and was not anywhere near the deck.
By Alvaro Arnal
From: Aspen, CO
Aug 22, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Yes the first 2 bolts were moved a bit higher by Nathan Martinez to make the falls safer. Shouldn't come close to hitting the ground now at any point on the climb. Thanks Nathan!
By Alvaro Arnal
From: Aspen, CO
Oct 29, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Fantastic route and very hard for the grade! I broke it down as a V6/7 boulder problem straight into pumpy, 5.11+ climbing with no rest until you reach the huge undercling after clipping the 3rd bolt. Get enough back here for 4 more moves of V3ish climbing to reach the huge jug horn and easier climbing to the anchor.

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