Scary as Fuck
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BETA PHOTO: Starts the same as Sweet Surprise, but skips the t...
Start in the offwidth under the big tree and climb the easy edges (no pro) to the sloping dirt ledge above. At this point the climb crosses lines with Sweet Surprise. Continue up and into the small gully immediately to the left of the open book. Once through the gully look right for the hand- to fist-size cracks described in Sweet Surprise. Loose rock was rampant at the time of FA, though future cleaning may reveal a pleasant route.
Gear to #3 Camalot, long slings.