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Scars on a Landscape 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 375'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Whitney Heuerman and Monty Regan
Page Views: 281
Submitted By: Drew Dekle on Nov 10, 2014

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Description 

First pitch is an excellent 5.9+ - getting to the first bolt is much easier than it looks - the crux is just above the second bolt and is well protected - - you will find a lot more natural gear on this route than it looks like from the ground - mid sized cams, tri-cams, plus small and medium stoppers. The runout from the last bolt to the anchor is easier than it looks. I have not done pitch two yet but it is supposed to be 5.10b and it would seem accurate - we replaced the first bolt today but it looks really good. The first ascent bolts on pitch one and the anchor have been replaced with stainless and are good - - pitch two bolts still need replacing but may be ok for your ascent - proceed with caution.

Location 

This route is 2 grooves (about 40') to climbers right of Whip O Will, 50' right of Welcome to Emerald City and 80' right of Campfire Girls (FYI, the groove just left of Scars is an un-named Jeep Gaskin route that needs re-bolting but has seen recent traffic) there is a little grassy clearing just below and climbers left of the start - aim to the left of a big obvious roof and moss pad that are about 90' above you. The route goes left of these features.

Protection 

There are a total of 3 protection bolts on pitch one but you will find a lot of gear where needed - a standard NC trad rack - no big pieces needed on pitch one. There are two protection bolts visible from the belay on pitch one belay on pitch two - we replaced the first one directly over the belay today - you will see our leaver biner - the second one is about 20' up and left of the groove - assume that there will be one or two more bolts on the pitch and likely some gear - the FA was done in bold style though - don't expect bolts on easier terrain - - there is a new double bolt rappel anchor on top of Welcome to Emerald City - - (there may be a double bolt anchor on top of Scars too). The Emerald City Anchor is about 50 or 60 feet climbers left (and up some) at the top of this pitch - when we do pitch two (replacing rusty bolts) I will post more (or someone else please add . . . . .


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By Drew Dekle
Apr 10, 2017

This is a great route and a good many of the old bolts have been replaced.

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