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Scarry Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Scott Ain 't Got Time For That S 
5 Seater Pencil Car S 
Babooby S 
Baron Von Crow S,TR 
Bear Hugging Big Hilda S 
Beverly Baboon S 
Dingo Dog S,TR 
Fox S 
Future Primitive S 
Huckle Cat S,TR 
Kitty Loves Pickles T 
Lowly Worm’'s Applecopter Express S,TR 
More Fun Than Three Monkeys in a Bananamobile S 
Mr. Fixit (Breaks Santa's Sleigh) T,TR 
Mr. Gronkle’'s Giveaway S,TR 
Officer Flossie S,TR 
Pie Rats Ahoy S 
Rudolf von Flugel Loops the Loops S,TR 
Snozzle S 
Terrible Dragon S 
Wonder Showzen S,TR 

Scarry Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 33.98639, -106.99529 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,560
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Badana Banantula on Oct 13, 2015
Forecast:
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60°
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78° | 54°
Sunday

77° | 53°
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75° | 54°
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BETA PHOTO: Updated Scarry Wall Topo as of Jan, 2017

Description 

Scarry Wall (a.k.a. Hidden Wall, a.k.a. Gateway Wall) consists of a handful of easy sport and trad slab routes. The rock quality is generally stable. A lot of route cleaning has been done, but caution should be exercised when accessing top anchors as to not drop loose rock on people below. This crag is perfect for the aspiring lead climber as it has several routes grade 5.9 and under, and it's well protected. The base of the climbing is flat, shaded by bushes, and makes a great place for kids and dogs to run around.

Don't be fooled by the crag's name, which is in honor of the children's book author Richard Scarry. Many of the route are named after his characters. This wall is anything but scary.

Abridged History (thanks to Bob Broilo): Most of these lines were done on natural pro in the 90’s by climbers such as Andy Mayer or Talon Newton, and more recently, Victor Alvidrez and Bob Broilo. On one of them (named “Sangre de Andy” for the blood stain that marked the bottom for years) Andy Mayer almost died when a hold broke sending him crashing 40’ feet down the rock, stopping 6-8 feet from the ground! Andy returned later to send the line. Some of these routes have also been bouldered (boldly) or soloed. Since the specifics of much of this history has been lost, the FAs are listed as those who established permanent anchors on the routes with full recognition that all of these lines have been done many times before.

The initial development involved three bolted sport lines installed on the far right side of the crag, established by Scott Roberts, Bob Broilo, Katie Sauer, and Jason Hebert. John Laing and Dan Turner bolted several more in the spring of 2015, followed by a handful of additions by Vaino Kodas and doni. Six more routes were added in various spots among the crag by Lin Robinson, John Laing and Dan Turner in the Winter of 2017.

There is a V3+ traverse called Sangre de Lizard that traverses all the major rock outcrops. Bring water and comfy shoes...

Getting There 

The trail to Scarry Wall begins across from Major Wall on the other side of the dirt road, where the road forks. Park along the side of the road at the fork and head in the opposite direction as Major Wall. The hike takes about 10 minutes and is marked by cairns.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.3 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',5],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Scarry Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Scarry Wall:
Huckle Cat   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Beverly Baboon   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Dingo Dog   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 58'   
Lowly Worm’'s Applecopter Express   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 52'   
Rudolf von Flugel Loops the Loops   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 56'   
5 Seater Pencil Car   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 33'   
Officer Flossie   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 58'   
Snozzle   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 28'   
Wonder Showzen   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 60'   
More Fun Than Three Monkeys in a Bananamobile   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Bear Hugging Big Hilda   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Baron Von Crow   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 75'   
Future Primitive   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Scott Ain't Got Time For That   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   
Pie Rats Ahoy   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   
Terrible Dragon   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Scarry Wall

Featured Route For Scarry Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Auggie scoping out the moves on Huckle Cat

Huckle Cat 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a  New Mexico : Socorro Area : ... : Scarry Wall
Fun climbing, perfect for kids or a first lead. Note: Consensus grade among four-year-olds is 5.17...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Scarry Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Great views
Great views
Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the best easy and moderate climbing (both ...
Some of the best easy and moderate climbing (both ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peaceful setting away from the crowds at Socorro
Peaceful setting away from the crowds at Socorro
Rock Climbing Photo: Scarry Wall  right side
BETA PHOTO: Scarry Wall right side
Rock Climbing Photo: Scarry Wall  center right  pod on the left is Bear...
BETA PHOTO: Scarry Wall center right pod on the left is Bear...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scarry Wall--Left  longer slab routes in the cente...
BETA PHOTO: Scarry Wall--Left longer slab routes in the cente...

Comments on Scarry Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karl Kiser
Nov 30, 2015
The crag is a great addition to Socorro climbing. The trail goes away from Major Wall, south, right around the hill and then left onto slabs and into a small drainage.

The cliff is relatively long and faces generally south. There are three general sections as one walks from northwest to southeast: 1) a slab portion; 2) a jumble portion; 3) a steeper portion.

Climbs are roughly 30 to 60 feet in height with painted bolts and usually chain anchors. The rock is quite good, especially for Socorrro.

There are three routes in the taller slab area.
By Karl Kiser
Jan 19, 2016
Sunshine on the rock in winter is approximately 10:30 am until 3:30 pm.
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 23, 2016
Minor correction - the crag is on the west side of the road, not the south. It faces west, not south, also
By doni
From: NM
Jan 2, 2017
If you are uncomfortable with high first bolts, you may want to bring a stick clip.
By Nathan D Johnson
Mar 31, 2017
The rock here is surprisingly good. With a short, flat approach, this is a good area for beginners and kids. The start of the climbs is the generally the crux with easier, more run-out sections above.
By Andrew B. Ellis
Jun 4, 2017
Great wall to get a bunch of easy to moderate climbs in - stays shady all morning. Good place to get a feel for the climbing style at The Box.

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