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The first thing to note: if someone is climbing the route to the right (VHS or beta
), wait until they finish that route, as this route causes an uncomfortable squeeze at an inopportune moment for both parties.
Fight through some bushes and start up the left hand line on fun, easy, ironically well-protected climbing to a good stance under the bulge. Clip a crooked, old SMC hanger, and pull through the bulge into a rock scar, where you will encounter the real crux - figuring out which way to go. This is runout with kind of a nasty surprise at the end, no matter which way you go. The rest is easy but still pretty runout.
With 2 additional bolts and some new hardware, this would be a pretty decent route. Otherwise, some shenanigans will reduce the hair factor and increase the enjoyment.
At the far right side of the Combustion Wall area, just above the scramble down to the Ejection Wall, there is a bushy alcove with two routes. This is the left hand route.
It has old, low quality bolts and hangers that are really poorly located. The crux is very runout, and depending on how you do it, you are looking at serious ledgefall potential. I recommend pre-hanging draws with a really long runner off the anchor and a 15 foot runner (yes, you read that correctly) off the last bolt. If this route was completely retrobolted, it would probably be 2 stars, but given its current status, it is just a few pockets with cobwebs in them. Going ground up OS on this would be pretty bold.
By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Dec 18, 2014
Hardware upgrade 11/27/14 by Nate.
Cold shuts swapped for Fixe hangers.
Special thanks to ASCA for the hardware.