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West Face T 

Scarface 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Colin B., Nate F.
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 598
Submitted By: Thomas Ramier on May 24, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This line climbed in August 2010 is several hundred feet to the right of the old NW Buttress line. It may connect with that terrain higher up for the last couple moderate pitches.

The 2nd pitch involves sustained steep handcrack and awesome exposure.

There likely still remains some loose blocks on the ledges from the rock fall.

Location 

Up the gulley to the left of the West Face route. This terrain can be very loose and exposed!

Protection 

RPs, 2x #2 TCU - #3 BD, 1x #00 TCU & #4 BD
(See topo)


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By kerwinl
Aug 8, 2017

We watched a party kick off multiple blocks from this route a few that appeared to be the size of a small microwave and shoeboxes, among other many small rocks. They all rained down into the approach gulley and could have easily killed someone. Avoid this route unless you are very confident in your skills and can ensure that no one is in the gulley.

We had a vantage point of being about 50 yards to the right of the route as they climbed up while developing a new route that climbs just right of the rock scar. Yikes!!
By Alex Thompson
Aug 9, 2017

We climbed Scarface on Sunday, August 6th. This climb is dangerous, especially to anyone who might be below. Any loose rock that falls from the first four pitches can bounce down the approach gulley onto the start of multiple other climbs.

P1-2: (as described in Cascades Rock) are relatively clean, though one hold broke off when the follower pulled through the 5.10 move on P1.

P3: there is a tempting finger crack directly above the belay; there were two large, sharp flakes to its left that could easily cut the rope or fall onto the belayer. The traverse left on the ledge above is simple enough, but must be executed very delicately, as numerous loose blocks from fist to cooler size are resting on it.

P4: There are a few large, loose blocks between the fixed piton at the start of the pitch and the left edge of the large roof. One thigh-sized block is sitting next to the hand crack above the slab. I trundled one large rock from the edge of the roof, afraid that the rope running near it would dislodge it on the second (even with gear far from the edge and long runners). There are still other medium-large rocks sitting there that should be removed only when you can be sure no one is beneath you. Around and above the roof was cleaner, and from the top of P4, there was only one rock we threw to the north side of the mountain.

P5+: The finishing pitches are blocky and not so loose.

I'd like to echo kerwinl -- please don't climb this route when there is a chance parties will be beneath you. Even if no one else is around, think carefully before you head up this one. There is too much loose rock, and too many other good routes nearby to risk someone getting hurt or killed. The 55m corner was awesome, as was the 10+ section in the third pitch. However, I would not choose to climb it again in its current state.

If others have climbed this route, I would be curious to know if you think it could be cleaned on rappel. I haven't yet cleaned a route, but if someone else thinks this climb is worth cleaning and wants help making CBR safer, I would be happy to help clean it.

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