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Pinecrest Buttress
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L to R R to L Alpha
Boy with a Coin T 
Foe-Hammer T 
Gore T 
Great Owl, The T 
Reckoning, The T 
Scarface II T 

Scarface II 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 210
Submitted By: Brandon Gottung on Oct 27, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Scarface II, with its distinct sickle-shaped and/o...

Description 

Sweet hands roof out of a wide slot to a perfect less-than-vertical right-leaning hands splitter.

Best to link into the roof above that is Gore now that a new anchor has been added there allowing for an easy lower to the ground (knot the rope it's a full 30 meters).

Protection 

Double .75 to #3, #4 and optional #5.


Photos of Scarface II Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scarface and gore roof
Scarface and gore roof

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By RyderS Stroud
From: Dali, Yunnan Province, China
Apr 14, 2015

An über route from start to finish! There's good reason why this route graces the cover of newest edition of the Liming guidebook!

A handcrack roof right off the deck (don't get spooked, the jams are awesome) will deposit you beneath the amazing sickle-shaped crack. Pull through the widest portion, and the crack will cut back towards a small overhang, angling right towards the top of Boy with a Coin. Continue on the secure jams (smaller folks may find it more rattly) to the anchor shared with Boy with a Coin. This can be a classic first pitch to Gore, which together make for a great outing to get to the top of Pinecrest Buttress.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Nov 10, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This was my favorite 5.10 of our month-long trip. The #5 was mandatory for me, but didn't need anything smaller than #1. Another anchor setup that will twist the shit out of your rope too.
By Tao Techakanon
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Apr 23, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Definitely one of my favorite pitch during my stay in LiMing.

I did not place anything smaller than a #1

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