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Scared Straight 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eric Chemello
Page Views: 228
Submitted By: Lurker on Jan 20, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Great White's slightly harder sibling. Crux is a big span going right past the 2nd bolt. Stays on you as the wall steepens past the 4th bolt. Needs traffic. New titanium glue-in bolts.

Location 

Third route on the middle section of the Main Wall, just left of Great White.

Protection 

10 bolts, anchors.


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By Sic Nabo
Jul 30, 2015

Less juggy and a few harder moves than Great White. Hardest move is a huge extension down low, though there is another cruxy sequence about halfway up. Redpoint crux is probably managing the pump on the sprint to the chains -- many a climber has punted off screaming with both hands on jugs and an unclipped waist-high bolt!
By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 23, 2015
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I realize now what you mean by "falling off with both hands on jugs" after having two holds come off in my hands. Not optimal, but damn exciting!! Fantastic route.

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