||TR, Boulder, 20'
|Original: || Hueco: V5 Font: 6C R [details]|
|FA: ||Lang Van Dommelen|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Page Views: ||257|
|Submitted By: ||Dommelhiemer on May 30, 2014|
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BETA PHOTO: Scareball
This problem is clearly visible from the road. It is a large blunt arete that sticks out of the side of the hill at the far end of the diamond south boulders. the south side of the boulder is brilliant orange granite.
Start on the left before the arete and Climb fun jugs towards the right through some dynamic moves to the lip. From the lip climb smaller holds until you're on the "headwall" make a barndoor move to pinch in the middle of the face. Make a move to the arete and follow it to an easy top out.
While of a relatively easy grade, this is a serious problem and should be treated as such. Falling will spit you about 20' down into the scree, for a classic archangel landing.
You can see this problem on the far end of the boulder field from the road. from the AAC outhouse head towards the normal stream crossing, turn left and head down the valley on the small trail that skirts the river. After a bit there is a bit of a clearing that forms, start moving up hill through some bouldering hopping. Towards the arete now about 100 yards away uphill and to the left. Many problems in here have been cleaned and climbed. Pass "Narsil" on the way, this is about 5 or 10 yards north of the arete.
Lots of pads and spotters. You can set up a TR on some boulders. Bring a junky rope for this there is a big swing.
As of Summer of 2014, David said he improved the landing somewhat.
Oct 1, 2014
rating: V5-6 6C+ PG13
The work David did on the landing makes this much more reasonable, although it is still a tall and VERY proud line. Nice work Lang!