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Scar Tissue 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,254
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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A continuous, near-vertical, thin crack climb with thoughtful pro. I didn't think this was any better than Silent Partner, but the guidebook and my partner did, so bowing to peer pressure, I'll give it 4 stars.

Start at an obvious thin, straight up crack about 5M right of King of the Hangdogs, the obvious left facing corner.

The first 15', thin laybacking etc. on thin, left facing flakes, is the crux; decent pro is available for this section but it is tough to place. If you have a crashpad or springy legs, you might be better off bouldering this section as the landing is smooth. After you latch the key undercling, marking the end of the crux, there is a straightforward .4 Camalot (gray) placement. After this, pull up and over a bulge (good pro but strenuous to place) to a good rest. At the rest, place a nest of RP size nuts and wriggle past another tricky spot. The climb continues in this fashion, decent but not completely obvious pro with matching moves until another crux is encountered around 2/3 height. After this the climbing relents somewhat as does the gear. Note: my 2000 vintage guide gives both cruxes 10+; my partner and I both found the first considerably harder. The pitch ends at rap anchors.


Doubles from RPs up to red Alien with a couple of bigger pieces but nothing larger than a #1 Camalot.

Photos of Scar Tissue Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A good spotter is an essential piece of equipment....
A good spotter is an essential piece of equipment....
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep, cool climbing!
Steep, cool climbing!
Rock Climbing Photo: A good look at most of the route
A good look at most of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Annie toproping Scar Tissue
Annie toproping Scar Tissue
Rock Climbing Photo: The route...
The route...

Comments on Scar Tissue Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 1, 2017
By mountainsense
Sep 16, 2008

beware the bouldery start!
By wilcox510
Oct 1, 2009

There is now an extremely fixed offset nut around the "nest of RPs" spot. Very cool route. Maybe I was being irrational but I was fairly scared the whole time on lead. Continuously challenging with OK but not great gear (apparently with the exception of that nut placement...). I led this the same day as leading Crack of Doom and found this far more mentally taxing.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 13, 2010

The fixed nut is gone. This route sucks up the small gear. I placed 4 each .4 and .5 camalots, plus 2 .3's, 2 purple TCU's, 1 gray TCU, and 3 rp's(don't leave the ground without these!). Nothing bigger. The crack is somewhat flared that takes fidgeting to get the gear to sit right, making the climbing a bit more anxious. The start is pretty fun, as long as you don't break your ankle.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jul 21, 2011

I agree that your mental game needs to be on for this one; the crux off the ground is pretty tough, even though the landing is great. Excellent crack, though.
By SamP
Jul 27, 2011

I placed several offset aliens and was psyched about it.
By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 26, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route. Bring your A game for the start. And check out SIlent partner. Every bit as good
By Alec LaLonde
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a superb route that doesn't seem to get done as much as the other classic CoR crack lines. Tough start but with adequate gear, then continuous, engaging 5.10 climbing to the top. Offset nuts and optional offset cams provide great gear the whole way up.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 20, 2015

The start is the crux. Since the undercling left of the crack at 12 feet has broken twice now (still usable), and the little jelly bean smear pebble in the quartz dike at the start (left wall) has also snapped off, I'm gonna say its now a v3 boulder instead of the original V2. (Read between the lines- V3 =11c)
By zach cook
From: Boise, ID
Jul 20, 2015

Hard first couple moves, but if you can clammer on up to the first good stance, you should be in the clear. after boulder start its thin, but safe...takes great nuts and offset pieces. Really enjoyed this route, especially having afternoon shade.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 20, 2015

Something else! Not as straight forward as it looks from the ground. Climbs a lot more like a face climb than a finger crack.
By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
Oct 1, 2017
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Cruxy start followed by sustained crack and face climbing to the top. Some good rests and great gear the entire way. Get on this thing!!

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