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Mill Creek Crag
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Big Dreams  S 
Bulge to Groove T,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Deflator-Mouse T,S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Dirty Boulevard, The S 
Eye of the Tiger S 
Face T,TR 
Face (left of Freeway) TR 
Feline Antics S 
Freeway T,TR 
Groper S,TR 
Honey Pot S,TR 
Joint Therapy S 
Jug Haul T,TR 
Lou Reed  T 
Pit of Despair, The T,S 
Scantily Trad T 
Slot Machine S 
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 
Sweet Petite S 
Turning Point S 

Scantily Trad 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: RMWright, Summer 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Typical of Dumont
Page Views: 931
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Not Rifle but still steep.


Begin just right of the fully trad route called Roof Rack, which is the roof and corner system. Scantily Trad should be obvious with its five bolts leading to a headwall crack. The rock on ST is excellent. Hard and continuously devious climbing begins at clip two and remains complex and powerful until halfway through the crack above. While there are hard sequences at each bolt but # 1, getting to and past bolts 3 and 4 sets up a long and complex crux. Having the draws in place saves some major pump. ST gets full southwest sun after 1:00pm and is climbable well past sunset.


Scantily Trad starts just RIGHT of Roof Rack. Jug Haul starts off a bolt but is LEFT of Roof Rack.


Five draws, a few small cams, and/or wired stoppers. Double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos of Scantily Trad Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux starts at bolt below the clip where the r...
The crux starts at bolt below the clip where the r...
Rock Climbing Photo: Deceptively easy looking Scantily Trad with two ki...
BETA PHOTO: Deceptively easy looking Scantily Trad with two ki...

Comments on Scantily Trad Add Comment
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By slim
Jul 17, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

This route could be an excellent route if the last 2 bolts were moved a bit to the left. In their current location, the rope runs diagonally under your feet during the slightly tweaky crux, and you have the potential for a total flossing. Also, both biners are mangled around a corner. Moving the 2 bolts a bit left would 'feather' it nicely into the crack.

The rock at the start is pretty wild. It is really smooth, kind of like climbing a granite kitchen counter top, yet not slippery.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 17, 2015

Interesting, Slim. When Patrick and jumped on it, I had a similar thought, perhaps a foot, perhaps less. The last bolt was placed with the idea of clipping off the incut, but this might still work with the bolt a foot to the left. I'll do it. How far are you thinking?
By slim
Jul 17, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Man, that is so funny about the incut - I did the route several times before I 'accidently' found it as I was falling off and snagged it. That thing is sooo hidden, even when you are looking at it. It definitely makes clipping the last one a lot easier.

I think if you could move it a foot or maybe 18 inches left it should be good (assuming the rock is good for a bolt). For me, the crux was that sort of 'dynamic high step' with the right foot. I was relieved when it went - I was pretty nervous about the potential floss'n'toss :)

Really nice climbing on this one.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 20, 2015

Job done; 4th and 5th bolts shifted left approximately 18 inches according to the integrity of the rock. The rope does indeed feed nicely to the crack. The added bonus is that clipping 4 and 5 is easier than before. The step into the crack is a tiny bit more airy but not really any cause for concern.
By slim
Jul 20, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Awesome, thanks Richard - a really nice set of routes on this wall. Definitely a little gem for the area.
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Jul 17, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

A really cool route with some fun gymnastic moves. Don't let the trad classification scare you away. The business is all on bolts, and you could honestly bring no gear, although it would certainly be an airy finish. I placed a BD 0.3 and 0.4 which more than sewed it up.
By Abram Herman
From: Golden, CO
Aug 14, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Great route! All the business is on bolts, but the pump could still kick you off the top. Top protected perfectly with a 0.3 C4 and a blue Mastercam.
By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Aug 15, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

We hung fixed draws, 3rd and 4th and 5th bolts, , and we created a nice belay platform. Really great climb, lots of different types of climbing in one lap, not to be taken lightly. Still need a piece or two in the upper crack when it turns to 5-10d.

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