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Devil's Den Bouldering
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Scala 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Aug 23, 2013

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Scala

Description 

This is an outstanding arete climb that is unfortunately marred by its location and landing.

Start standing in the muddy area at the base and reach high with your right hand to find a pinch that works for you. Then use an undercling pinch with your left hand. Paste a foot somewhere and attempt to pull off the ground, fighting a vicious barndoor that tends to swing you towards the Dust Boulder. If you manage to get yourself off the ground, bump the left hand to a good edge (or the top) and reach with your right for a good pinch where the lip and arete meet. Then figure out a way to mantel the slabby pedestal. Once standing on the pedestal, press on for a few tenuous moves, with complete disregard for your safety. Or perhaps more smartly, bail to the top of the nearby boulder.

Now the downsides:

The base of this climb is often submerged, but seems to dry out after a few weeks without rain, particularly in the late summer through fall.

Unfortunately, one of the difficulties of this climb is to avoid dabbing the Dust Boulder (particularly on the start) since it is in such close proximity.

Lastly, once you have attained the lip of the boulder, falling is basically not an option as you would likely fall directly onto the sharp arete of the boulder behind you. So you should feel pretty confident at the grade if you are going to attempt this line.

All of that being said, this climb is quite good and is very worth of your attention! If it's dry, climb it!!

Location 

This climb is located to the right of 'Throng' back in a corridor/alcove. It climbs the obvious arete just left of the Dust Boulder.

Protection 

A few pads and a spotter would be ideal


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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 23, 2013

I hopped on this today because it's the first time I've seen it dry, so I felt obligated to take advantage of that and climb it!

I did some extensive cleaning on the line, from the bottom through the pedestal. I also cleaned the top a bit. I couldn't clean the arete above the pedestal because I didn't have my stick brush with me.

So, you might want to do a little cleaning on the upper arete if you're planning on topping this thing out all the way.

As stated in the guidebook, there is also a variation that uses the Dust Boulder (the wall right of the crack) for feet. This makes it more of a layback and substantially easier, though still quite worthwhile. Perhaps v2/3?
By Graham O.
Aug 30, 2016

This looks REALLY SCARY!!! I've talked to Keith about the layback version, he said it was a fun v2ish highball. IMO, this doesn't look half as cool as the other v6-8's in the den, but I'm sure its worthwhile.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Aug 31, 2016

Christian did you ever mess around with a sit start to this? It seems like the natural start would be sitting matched on the good edge down low. Me and a couple friends were messing around with it last night and it ended up being pretty cool.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 1, 2016

Troy- My friend Tyler and I tried the sit start to it. It was cool, but really hard to not dab on the wall to the right. If the wall wasn't there, the sit start would be really cool. We gave up on it because it felt like subtraction by addition.
By Graham O.
Sep 4, 2016

So I saw tons of chalk on it today (first time in the two years that I've gone to Pway) and had a friend trying Throng, so I thought I was obligated to try it since it looked kinda cool and we had six pads. I got to the ledge but bailed out left. No regrets. Didn't get a chance to try the v3 variation but it looked pretty cool. All In all, a decent climb worth doing, but it's contrived status and terrible landing cause it to not stand a chance against Universal Socket, Individual Medley, and Red Right Hand.