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Savwafare Ist Everywhere 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Steve Untch & Steve Bartlett, 1984
Page Views: 1,227
Submitted By: John Hegyes on Dec 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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JTree climbing!


This route features 3-star climbing on 2-star rock. It may clean up in time, but for now the route is a little chossy in places. It's quite steep and the pro is tricky at the crux. Very fun, with nice rest ledges. Walk off right.


This route is located on the southwest-facing Savvy Dome, on the taller, righthand section of rock. It is about 8 feet to the left of Shame - a very thin 5.10c seam.


Up to #1 Camalot. Build an anchor with gear.

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By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Feb 2, 2009

The rock on this route is actually quite good and the pro is pretty straightforward. A few small cams protect the crux very well.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Apr 15, 2010

Sustained fun moves on great holds for almost half a rope-length. If this was in HVCG there's be a line on it daily. A must do if in the area.
By Tradiban
Jan 20, 2012

This was just ok. I didn't have alot of confidence in the rock either. Worth doing if you're walking by but I think there are better routes within a few hundred yards for sure.
By Canon
Nov 22, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good route, solid rock quality. Started by traversing in from the left to avoid stepping on the cactus at the base of the crack. Crux up high was protected with a marginal 0 C3 (red) and a good #1 TCU. Didn't use anything bigger than a #1 camalot. After pulling through, you can protect that clutch right finger pocket with a #3 master cam. Lots of ledges make for bad fall potential, but you can place great gear overhead before getting making the moves off each ledge. Sling boulders + nuts for top anchor.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice line and probably best if combined with a day at The Brown Wall. Easy walk off climber's right. Route based is flanked with two very nice sets of cactus. Lots of anchor options up top cams, nuts, hand size to 3" plus a nice belay.
By mhagny
Jan 5, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The start is harder than 8+, even by J-tree standards. Fun, and the pro is good the entire way. It never slabs out or gets boring -- good route!

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