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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This route is located between Coyne Crack and Keyhole Flakes. I put it up in May 1999, on lead, on sight. The crux is at top and goes conservatively 5.13b/c. This route was omitted in the recent guidebooks, and is one of Indian Creek's test pieces. Fantastic finish, never done!!
It starts with an easy boulder move to an optional #5 Camalot placement leading to the meat of the route. At first a right facing corner, leading to a left-facing and thinning corner to a double bolt belay slightly left.
Between Coyne Crack and Keyhole Flakes, a very unlikely looking thin double corner.
Be ready for some thin pro. Many 0.5, thinning to 0.1 and 00.1. Tiniest TCUs on top offer dubious pro. Rollers are better. I repeated my route May 2013, and just as I was reaching the anchors, I fell unzipping one third of the pitch (scar under anchors from piece popping), a nasty forty footer. Do not do this route after it rains. Cam hooks OK on top. When sandy this climb is a 5.14.
By Nate Sydnor
Dec 10, 2016
This pitch is incredible, with amazing rock, enjoyable climbing, and just enough features to be possible up top. A couple of hand-size pieces get you past the initial section (no 5 necessary). The changing corners take one small piece and then many blue TCU/red c3 sizes. Red c3s work better in places as the crack is a little tight. For the top, several of the BD .2, purple TCUs/green c3s, and finally something grey or black will see you to the anchor. Understanding that it is Antoine's route, I would still admonish people from using cam hooks. They are not necessary and will likely damage the rock. I think the gear in the upper crux section is quite good, albeit small.